Log Home Restoration Video

Log Home Restoration: From The Homeowners Point Of View

This picture was taken from the inside during this log home restoration. This is what the homeowner can expect to see during the stripping process.

The brown run-off is stain residue that has been dislodged. The little chuncks are actual pices of the “film” from the “film-forming” stain that did not completly dissolve from the stripper. 

 This residue run-off is caustic and care must be taken so as not to damage plants, lawns, sidewalks, driveways or decrorative foundation and stonework as well as certian metal objects such as galvanized flashing, door hardware, electrical outlets, ect…Also, if the log home leaks ( and they ALL leak to some degree) care must be taken to control any residue that may enter the interior. Stripper residue can streak a log wall very fast if not addressed immediately.

As can be seen, chemical stripping is a harsh prodedure and must be monitored closely. Make sure you hire someone that knows proper stripping techniques. Once the damage is done, it is very hard to reverse any streaking or staining of interior walls.

Log Home Restoration: The Importance of Neutralizing

Log Home Restoration: Cleaned & Stained?

I often get requests from log home owners saying, “I want to have my log home cleaned and stained.” When I ask exactly what do they mean, I usually here, “I want the logs power washed and re-coated.” At this point I ask for a few minutes of their time to explain log home restoration.

Depending on the type of finish on the logs and it’s condition will dictate what process must be used to prepare the wood for re-coat. This is where log home restoration can sometimes get a bad name because of the contractor either not knowing the proper steps to be taken or just not caring.

The general rule of thumb is, if you have a latex stain or paint that is in GOOD condition, then probably a good wash with a chlorine/detergent solution will do. If it is failing, media blasting using cob, soda or glass is the best form of removal. If it is an oil stain, there are two factors to take into consideration. Is it a “film forming” or a “non-film forming” finish.  Knowing this will determine what process must be taken to prepare the logs for recoating.  

As a log home restoration contractor, I have been called to many log homes that have been stained (with an oil or latex stain) only a few years prior and are now failing. As a rule, the problem with the stain is one of two things.

First, the stain was put on a newly constructed home that probably had “green” or wet logs and were not properly cleaned and prepared to receive the finish. Second, someone came along and sold the homeowner on a bleach wash and a fast re-coat. 

With the first, the newly constructed home, several things must be taken into consideration. Most of the time with the exception of a few log home manufactures that have kiln dried logs, most logs probably have not been cut down very long and are still “green”. If it is a milled log, it is most likely coated with “Mill Glaze”; a result of the logs passing through the fast turning milling knives that leaves a film on the surface of the wood. Also, it is not uncommon after the home is built to find soiled, stained or mildewed logs that have been erected. So you end up with wet logs that have a film of sap on them and stand a good chance of being dirty. Not the ideal surface for a penetrating stain or any kind of finish for that matter. 

In the second case, it must be determined if the stain is a “film forming” or a “non-film forming stain. If it is a film forming stain, the best advice is to follow the manufacture’s directions for re-coating. Take note that most film forming oil stains require “clean bare wood” to re-coat which means a total strip of the old finish. Often the instructions can be confusing or unclear so read carefully or call the manufacture to get clarification. Many people including contractors ignore this important step and apply another coat of stain on top of the existing stain. The problem with a “film-forming finish, is the new coat can not penetrate the film of the existing finish and therefore remains on the surface. The logs will look good for a while but, because it did not penetrate and it was applied on top of an already failing stain, it will certainly fail prematurely. 

With “non-film forming stains, because there is no film, the finish not only will not peel, crack or blister, it simply wears away. Depending on the age and condition, usually a light chlorine and TSP solution wash is sufficient if the wood was cleaned and prepped properly the first time. However, if it can not be determined  that the wood was properly cleaned, it would be best to spend the extra money and do it right, rather than having a new finish fail prematurely. Proper preparation of the wood is imperative to achieve maximum performance of any finish. 

 It is generally accepted that while bleach will kill mildew, it has no cleaning properties. So if the house (or deck) is mildewed only, it may be alright to use bleach to remove it, but that does little to remove dirt and other debris. The best way to solve all of the above problems is to do a “light” strip unless there is an intact stain that must be removed, in which case a more aggressive strip would be required. 

Although there are “mill glaze” remover products sold, a light chemical strip is all that is needed to not only remove mill glaze, but also dirt, stains and discolorations. Stripping will also remove mildew however, it is recommended to follow up with a chlorine rinse to make sure all the mildew is not just removed, but the mildew spores are killed deep into the pores of the wood. If not completely eradicated from the wood, mildew can grow back under the new stain causing major problems that can only be corrected by going through the whole stripping process again. 

The stripping process is rather involved and costly. However, if the existing finish is failing, it is the proper way to prepare the wood. If the new stain has to be removed because of shortcuts, it will end up costing far more than if it had been done properly the first time.

So when the log homeowner wants their home “cleaned and stained,” they need to be sure that the proper procedure is being used for their particular situation. Each project is different and an on site inspection is required to determine exactly what is needed.

Log Home Restoration: Quick Tip

STAIN TEST

One way to check the existing finish on your log home is to do a stain test. Take a pice of masking tape and place it firmly on different areas of  the logs. Press it firmly so to be sure it has adhered well. Then, quickly pull the tape off and examine the tape. If much of the stain come off with the tape, the stain is failing. If only a little come off, it is probably alright for another year but should be watched and tested again in a few months. When it gets to the point much of the tape is covered, it’s time to think about maintenance coats.  Don’t wait too long to recoat. It is better to do maintenance coats too soon rather than too late.

Log Home Restoration: What is Mill Glaze?

Mill Glaze is a waxy film that results from the fast turning blades that cuts the profile on a manufactured log. The high speed of the turning blades produces heat that draws sap and moisture out of the log. As it cools and dries, it creates a film or coating on the logs. If the film is not removed, an oil stain will not penetrate properly and latex stains will not adhere properly. Although there are “mill glaze” remover products sold, a light chemical strip is all that is needed to not only remove mill glaze, but also dirt, stains and discolorations. Stripping will also remove mildew however, it is recommended to follow up with a chlorine rinse to make sure all the mildew is not just removed, but the mildew spores are killed deep into the pores of the wood. If not completely eradicated from the wood, mildew can grow back under the new stain causing major problems that can only be corrected by going through the whole stripping process again. Do it right the first time.

Log Home Restoration: Quick Tip

The key to re-coating, or maintenance coating is to not wait too long. It is better to apply another coat too early rather than too late. A good rule of thumb is to wash the house with a mild detergent once a year. Lightly scrub with a brush if there are stubborn stains or mildew present. Then after it has dried, do a “walk around inspection.” Make notes of any areas you see of failing caulk or bee holes or other questionable areas. Make the repairs necessary to these areas. Then based on the inspection, it can be determined if it is time for a maintenance coat.

Log Home Restoration: Quick Tip

Your log home is a large investment. Spending the time and the money to maintain it is also an investment. Most people would not go to a “big box” store and buy a can of spray paint to re-paint their car. Yet all too often, the “off the shelf” retail stains are bought and used to re-stain their log homes. This is one instance in which “you get what you pay for!” Make an investment!

Log Home Restoration: Stripping and Sealing

Log Home Restoration: Chemical Stripping

Chemical Stripping Video

Log Home Restoration: The Importance of Neutralizing

Stripping removes failing sealer or grayed out wood but, it also raises the ph level and darkens the wood as well as leaves  residue that will not rinse out.  If the wood is not neutralized the darkened wood will make a semi-transparent stain several shades darker. Moreover, stripper residue WILL interact with the new sealer causing premature failure. It is one extra step but, if ignored big problems will arise!

In this log home restoration, the left door has had nothing done to it yet, The right side was stripped and still wet from the neutralizer. When it dries, it is properly prepared and ready for sealing.

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