Frequently Asked Questions on Wood Restoration
Here you can find some of the most asked questions from homeowners who have used our Wood Restoration services. If you have a question not answered here, please give us a call or drop us an e-mail. We will do our best to give you a satisfactory answer. If we don't know the answer, we have access to excellent manufacture and supply representatives that are knowledgeable in their fields and willing to help.
What causes most sealers to fail?
Most premature finish failures are caused by three problems:
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Wood is too wet. Most people including contractors never check the moisture content of the wood. So they let a couple of days go by and slap the stain on. There is no way of knowing how wet the wood is without checking it with a moisture meter. All wood has to be at least at a 15% moisture content or lower.
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Improper preparation. All manufactures require wood to be clean, DRY, bare and properly neutralized before applying any type oil- based sealer.
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Poor quality sealer. Over the counter stains will not hold up to the harsh elements day after day. On vertical surfaces they will do OK. But on horizontal surfaces they just don't have the penetrating qualities needed to hold up.
Why does my deck need stripping?
Decks should be stripped prior to applying any type of finish. Most manufactures require that wood be clean, dry, free of oil and grease and any worn or failed finishes be removed. Simply pressure washing alone will not properly prepare the surface. Chemical stripping is the best and easiest way of obtaining the desired results.
Can I just use bleach for cleaning my deck?
Bleach can be used if diluted properly for the removal of mildew. However it has little if any cleaning or stripping capability. The problem with household bleach, (Sodium Hypoclorite), is that it breaks down the lignin in the wood which is the glue that holds the wood fibers together. Also it is a very alkaline chemical that raises the ph of the wood and is very hard to completely rinse off leaving a slick residue that can interfere with the penetration and adhesion of the sealer/stain.
Why is ph level important?
Most if not all cleaners and strippers are caustic and very alkaline. If you have ever gotten bleach or even dish detergent on your hands, you know how hard it is to rinse off? That's because it's an alkaline chemical. When it comes to wood, most manufactures require a neutral or acidic ph content of the wood. That means that the wood is free of the slippery alkaline residue making it suitable to accept the stain.
How is proper ph obtained?
Any time a stripper or cleaner is used on wood prior to sealing, IT MUST BE NEUTRALIZED! This is one of the most neglected steps and can lead to premature finish failure. Neutralizing alkaline chemicals is achieved by using acids. It is applied in a safe controlled environment at predetermined metered solutions. It is allowed a set dwell time and then rinsed off. The wood is then tested to determine the ph level. Usually one application is sufficient.
Are all sealers about the same?
NO! Most oil-based sealers/stains are linseed oil based. A vegetable oil that not only attracts mildew but is food for it. Also, these stains are high in colorant but low in iron oxides,( the ingredient that provides UV protection.) Most of these type stains penetrate poorly forming a film on the surface that usually exhibits uneven wear, chipping or peeling and are quick to fade. Not the best choice for exterior applications. Parofinic oils are the professional's choice.
How do I know when it's time to re-seal my deck?
Do the water drop test. Sprinkle a few drops of water on the wood. If it sits on the surface, the wood is protected. If it immediately soaks in, it's time to start thinking about restoration.
Should I seal my new deck?
If a deck is six months or older, it's time to seal it. Newer decks should be allowed to "weather". This will remove any mill glaze present and open the pores of the wood so more sealer can be absorbed into the wood. If a new deck is sealed, the mill glaze must be chemically removed and then allowed to dry to the standard 15% moisture content which may take several days or weeks depending on how "green" the wood is. The finish on a new deck will be short lived. It is better to wait 3 to 4 months, do a light cleaning to remove any mildew and dirt, let it DRY and then apply the coating. Waiting that short length of time will not harm the wood. Water is not a problem (although most advertised stains claim to be "water-proofers") Remember, it's pressure treated lumber! The sun is the culprit when it comes to wood damage, but in this case, the wood has to dry out and open up to be able to absorb the sealer.
What is mill glaze?
Mill Glaze is formed during the manufacturing process. Sap and resins in the wood are brought to the surface and heated during milling process from the friction of the fast turning milling blades or heads. This forms a glaze that closes the wood fibers and allows for poor stain penetration and must be removed before sealing.
