Cedar siding homes need protection from the elements just like log homes. Some people like the natural look and let them gray out. That may be pretty, but unprotected wood dries out quickly and when that happens it’s only a matter of time before it starts splitting. Then the damage is done.  Keeping a good oil sealer applied is the key. Oil keeps the wood plyable, soft and acts as a moisturizer. Want to know more…click here.

Now that it has turned cooler, some people think it’s to late to stain their log home. Actually, cooler weather is somewhat better. The cooler temperatures allow the sealer more time to absorb into the wood before it drys. In the heat of the day in the summer, care must be taken not to apply stains in direct sun because of rapid evaporation. This causes the finish to dry too quickly not allowing proper penetration into the logs. For more information concerning winter restoration click here. 

There seems to be a misconception that log home finishing can not or should not be preformed during the winter months. That is true only to the extent that the same thing is true for the summer months.

Like a lot of things….

Moderation is the key.

Most people think during the spring and summer months seems to be the ideal time to apply stains and sealers. Thats fine. However….most manufactures require that the product not be applied to any surface usually above 90 degrees. (This number may change depending on the company.)

  The key word is surface.

The ambient temperature can be 75 to 85 degrees or even cooler, but the surface of the logs in direct sunlight can be substantially higher. Far above the manufacture’s requirments. The extreme heat can cause the stain to evaporate quickly causing improper penetration into the wood. Also, the direct sunlight can cause “flashing.” This occurs when the carrier of the oils and pigment dry too fast leaving a film or coating on top of the wood instead of soaking into the wood.  So on the hotter summer days, care must be taken when appling the finish. You may have to work on the shady side of the log home, or in the “cool” of the day to avoid the these problems. This holds true with latex (water based) stains as well.

On the other hand….

Most stain/sealer manufactures require the product be applied on average between 45 and 85 degrees. This number also varies depending on the manufacture. As with the extreme heat…extreme cold has its problems. The most obvious being freezing. This will definatly affect latex (water based) stains. Oil stains will not freeze (at least in the southeast) but they will thicken up. Also, in very cold weather it takes longer for the stain to absorb. This can be looked at in two ways. The cold will take the finish longer to dry making it more susceptible to rain . On the other hand, slower dry times will allow the oils to penetrate more deeply.. So it’s a trade off. The best time to apply any finish is when some common sense is applied first. For more information click here.

Almost September and it seems the hottest days may be behind us. That means the cold weather is on it’s way.  That means it is time to start thinking about winterizing you log home. We will offer common sense tips over the next several weeks to help make sure your home is not only protected from the sun and rain , but also from the cold.

Once the old finish (paint) was removed (media blasted) the wood was reconditioned and neutralized. An oil based sealer/ preservative was applied to the point of refusal by brush and “worked” into the wood.  This was a custom mix to match the existing finish on the garage.  The garage  finish is  latex with a clear top coat. The house finish is  oil  with a clear top coat. We prefer to use penetrating oils that not only absorb deep into the logs but will not crack, blister or peel.

The best way to know what a color is going to look like on your log home or in this case cedar siding,  is to brush on some wet samples. During this cedar siding home restoration, a section of the cedar siding was cleaned and allowed to dry. Then several stain samples were applied. This is the only good way to determine what a color is going to look like on your home. Pictures and paint chips are not a very accurate way to determine  colors. Each house is going to be different. The type and age of the wood will dictate the shade of a stain so to really know and be sure about the color, wet samples are the best way to determine what your house will look when a new finish is applied.

When this wall is stripped, the samples will be removed and a clean bare surface will be left perfect for applying a new finish. And you will know exactly how the new finish will look.

Log home restoration sometimes requires more than one stripping method. On this log home, we stripped multiple coats of latex paint from the fascia but there was still a tent left from the engrained pigment. #40 grit sandpaper on orbital sanders was used to remove the engrained pigment.  #40 grit paper will leave a somewhat rough profile ideal for penetrating stain to absorb. Sanding the wood smooth leaves the woodgrain tight not allowing the finish to penetrate properly therefore preforming poorly.

A new log home restoration video is available for viewing @ www.youtube.com/taskmasters3

You can see that we apply an oil stain to logs by spraying with a corse low pressure spray. We then back brush to assure the oil is worked deep into the logs. It is worth mentioning that a low moisture content of the logs is important when apply any stain but critical  when applying an oil based finish.

Spring is almost here. So what does that mean to log home owners? Well, just like interior “spring cleaning” the exterior of the log home needs cleaning as well.

After a long harsh winter battling the elements, the finish can really take a beating. UV rays from the sun can do just as much danage in the winter as in the summer months and maybe more. At least in the summer, most log homes have some amount of shade from trees around the house. In the winter when all the leaves have fallen, the sun has more direct contact on the logs.  The sun can actually cause more damage to the finish as well as other wood than water by drying out the wood causing it to crack and split. The sun takes its toll on the finish as well.  

Pollen, dust and dirt builds up over time. This build up is perfect food for mold and mildew which can erode the finish in a realative short period of time. Moreover, mildew will keep growing having the potential to cause some major log rot problems.

To keep your log home looking its best and protected, it is a good idea to wash the home with a mild detergent at least once a year.  Be careful what you use as some cleaners can cause major damage to the finish. Clean wood not only looks nicer, but will help the finish last longer. And that  extends re-coating intervals and more importantly, major Log Home Restoration. 

Before any sealer is applied, plastic is laid out where needed to protect anything not recieving a finish. In this log home restoration, plastic is laid down on the roof below the shed dormer.  After that, canvas tarps are put on top. This helps absorb any overspray or drips and adds extra protection to the shingles.

When using a parrifin oil based sealer, it is imperative to not allow any to get on the asphalt shingles. It will soak  in so fast that it can not be removed. If this happens, it will actually desingrate the shingle causing the shingle to have to be replaced.

If using a “film-formimg” sealer (linseed oil), it is not as important as these finishes will not distroy the shingle like parriffin sealers. It will however soak in discoloring the shingle leaving a  permanent stain.

Taking a little extra time to protect surfaces from unwanted  overspray or drips can save time  by eliminating extra work having to clean these up or replacing damaged shingles.