On The Inside

 

 

 

 

 

 

During our log home restoration, we did extensive renovation to the exterior and also to the interior. Actually, it was more my wife and her ideas that did the interior decorating.

When we bought our log home, it was pretty plain on the inside, that is until my wife got to work.  Starting in the kitchen, the cabinets were light maple, the countertops were butcherblock and the ceiling is textured.

To give it a more “cozy” look, she put ceramic tile over the butcherblock. The cabinets were darkened by using a propane torch and lightly charring the wood and then applying a mahogany gel stain. The ceiling beams are 1×6 western red cedar attacthed to 2×4 blocks stained with a walnut oil based stain. The island was an old dresser that was modified and is setting on 2×4 blocks ( because I never finished it) and the “stuff”, well you will have to talk to my wif about that. I think she made a deal with a certian restaurant.  Staye tuned for more “On The Inside”.

Zebra Stripes?

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you have ever used a pressure washer and left marks or zebra strips on your sidewalk, driveway or deck, then you know it takes some skill and experenice to do it right. Most professional wood restoration contractors use “surface cleaners”. They do a much better job than a pressure washing wand because of the circular motion used to do the cleaning. With more uniform results, the surface cleaner used properly will not leave start and stop marks as does a pressure washer wand. It also makes the job faster and if it is a large job, it can reduce back fatigue.

On this deck, we used hot water to help aid in the stripping process of a latex stain. It was cold weather and the hot water helped activate the stripper.

Cedar T-111

This cedar T-111 home was stained with a comsumer grade product from the local big box store. Two years later the stain had failed, mildew was spreading and water damage was taking it’s toll. Much longer and we would have been doing wood replacement instead of wood restoration.

 We were able to do a light strip and neutralize then applied an oil sealer to the point of refusal and the wood was saved.

Quick Tip

Handrails weather fast. It don’t take long before you can see cupping, splitting, splintering and raised knots. You may even find a few nails that have worked out. If this sounds like your deck, there may be an easy fix that you can probably do yourself and it don’t cost much.

This will only work where there are no special cuts such as 45 degree corners or bevels. With a nail puller carefully remove the nails. You can usually get the nails up without too much damage. After the nails have been removed, just flip the board over and re-nail it or use deck screws. Most of the time the underside is in excellent condition. Now it would be best to pressure clean the handrail, let it dry and apply a quailty sealer.

Remember to inspect the handrails first to determine if it is possible to flip them before going through the trouble and finding out that the cuts won’t allow it.

Thats it. This won’t work in all cases, but when it does, it is a quick fix, easy and the only cost is a few nails or better yet, deck screws.

Neutralizing Wood: An Important Step Often Ignored

Log Home Restoration: Knowing When To Media Blast; The Good, The Bad And The Dusty

Log home restoration consists of many different techniques and procedures. One procedure that may not be familiar to some log home owners is “media blasting.” Just the name sounds pretty aggressive and may cause concern. However, used properly it is the best method of removing certain coatings and finishes.

 

 

 

Media blasting is similar to sand blasting in that it is a system that uses compressed air to force a particular media through a hose onto a surface with enough force to remove a coating or other material from the surface being cleaned. Different media reacts differently depending on the surface being cleaned and the coating being removed. Sand being one the most abrasive media is generally used for more industrial applications such as rust removal from steel, epoxy paints and other hard surfaces. Sand is not used as much as it once was because of the safety issues involved. Sand is made up of Silica, a known cancer causing agent. Therefore other types of media that have become available are preferred and are widely used.

 

In the case of log home restoration, media blasting has become an acceptable way of cleaning and removing some finishes from the logs and other surfaces. As with any type of cleaning or stripping, care must be taken in order to not change the profile or damage the surface of the logs or other substrate.

 

There are many different types of blasting media being used on the market. The most popular for log home restoration is crushed corn cob, crushed glass or glass beads and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda.) Each has it’s place and purpose.

 

Corn cob is probably the most popular and readily available. It works well at removing tough finishes without harming delicate surfaces such as vinyl trim, aluminum or glass. It also can be reclaimed, sifted and reused a few times before becoming spent and of no value. The disadvantages of using corn cob is, one it’s cost. Like other food products, corn is getting expensive, especially when using a couple of thousand pounds on a log home. And two, it probably creates the most dust. Although any finely ground media will be dusty, corn cob being so light and less dense, creates far more than most others. Also, being the most dusty means that it will get in every nook and cranny in and around your log home. It would be wise to ask whoever you get to do your blasting what precautions will be taken to eliminate as much dust as possible. Just as a side note, some dust will get inside of the home no matter what is done to prevent it so be ready to do some spring cleaning. There are a few ways however to help reduce the infiltration.

 

Another blasting media being used is sodium bicarbonate, or baking soda. This is used with good results especially if there is mold and mildew or smoke damage. It is the most expensive of the three and therefore generally used for the aforementioned applications. Unlike corn cob, soda can not be used over because it breaks down to the point that it becomes ineffective, again making it more expensive. It is like corn cob in that it is very forgiven and will not damage the underlying substrate. It is so forgiven that it can be used to remove paint from glass and plastic, but it has to be done properly.

 

Crushed glass or glass beads is a finely ground recycled glass that is the texture of fine sand. It does not cut the skin if handled, but can be harmful if ingested or inhaled so safety equipment must be used as with any media. Glass, unlike soda and corn can damage the surface and the substrate particularly wood and especially soft wood such as cedar or white pine.  The utmost care must be taken so as not to gouge or pit the wood. Although non-abrasive, glass is very hard and sharper than corn and soda thereby making it much more aggressive. The slightest contact with a window or door will damage it beyond repair making the contact area look like a frosted glass pane. Costing the least, it does clean well and remove stubborn coatings. Glass is the least dusty and can be recycled a few times if sifted. Overall it has the fastest cleaning ability due to the sharpness and density making it a cost effective method of stripping.

 

Media blasting using these three products performs well at removing latex stains and paint as well as some of the tougher “film forming” oil stains and sealers. They are eco-friendly and biodegradable making it easy to dispose of once spent. Usually it can be raked into the soil or the bulk can be gathered up and spread in an out of the way area where a few good rain showers will dissolve or dilute it.

 

Although some sanding may be involved, media blasting compared to sanding alone or using other latex strippers that usually contain methylene chloride, known to cause cancer, has become the best method of removing finishes that the typical oil strippers will not remove.

 

 Log home restoration consists of many techniques and procedures. Media blasting is one that has found it’s place in the log home restoration process. Knowing when to media blast depends on the finish on the log home. Knowing how to media blast depends on not only the proper technique, media, air pressure, and nozzle size, but also a knowledgeable operator. This is one procedure that you will get what you pay for.

Make sure you know what you are paying for.

Another Project Finished!

Just finished a log home in Elizabeth City, NC. Complete strip with an oil sealer on all the woodwork. Pictures will be up soon.

Understanding Log Home Restoration Staining Options

If you have owned your log home any length of time, then you have probably already had to deal with maintenance issues. If you are considering buying a log home, understanding maintenance requirements and procedures can help not only in the buying process, but also help in understanding what is involved in the periodic upkeep of the home.

 

Some log home owners after enjoying the initial excitement of the rustic beauty, the smell of the logs and the “log home living” atmosphere are disappointed to find that with all the beauty comes all the maintenance. However, if they understand proper maintenance procedure and protocol and maintain a  practical maintenance program, they can efficiently manage the upkeep of their home without becoming overwhelmed by what may seem like a daunting task.

 

This all hinges on proper maintenance. Proper maintenance does not mean washing the home with bleach, letting it dry, and applying a  do-it-yourself retail stain, or the all too familiar “water-proofing” sealer. This approach will certainly produce disappointing results.

Your log home is a large investment. Spending the time and the money to maintain it is also an investment. Most people would not go to a “big box” store and buy a can of spray paint to re-paint their car. Yet all too often, the “off the shelf” retail stains are bought and used to re-stain their log homes. This is one instance in which “you get what you pay for!”

 

Assuming that your log home was prepared properly to receive a quality sealer, and the sealer was applied correctly, you should expect 3 to 6 years of protection using a semi-transparent. Semi-solids and solids will last longer but the wood grain will be less visible with the semi-solid and invisible with the solid. You can expect less than 3 years if a clear or lighter stain is used.

 

 A good rule of thumb is, the darker the stain, the more pigment and therefore the more protection. Lighter shades (the natural look) have the least amount of pigment and the least amount of protection. So, it comes down to a trade off. Most people like the natural look of the logs. To achieve this, either a clear or a “honey” color will have to be used leaving the least protection on the logs. Using a darker color such as a “mahogany” or “walnut,” you have the most protection thereby lasting the longest, but most people don’t like the darker shades. Now, the log home owner will have to decide which is more important; using a lighter shade to keep the natural look and sealing more often, or using a darker stain with more protection, but loosing the natural log look.

 

Generally, depending on each log home restoration, it is recommended to use a stain that is in between the natural honey look that most everybody loves and the darker chocolate shades that most people tend to not want. These “middle of the road” shades while revealing much of the wood grain, still have enough pigment to provide ample protection and performance to last several years.

Understanding the different types of stains, the proper application of the stains and proper maintenance procedures will allow the log home owner to know what to expect and to make indformed decisions resulting in less surprises and a more pleasant log home restoration experience. After all, your log home should be a place of retreat.

Quick Tip

If your log home has a deck, you have a potential mildew and rot problem waiting to happen. Water running off the roof and splashing back onto the logs can cause some major damage in a relatively short period of time if not addressed. The best solution would be to put a roof over the deck to keep the water away from the wood altogether. The next best thing is to keep a close eye on the logs and keep any mildew cleaned off. Also, make sure a good finish is applied and more importantly maintained. The wood must be kept dry and protected.  It is much easier to brush some stain on the wood as needed rather than having the expense of replacing logs.

Help Wanted

Loking for someone honest and willing to do what it takes to get th job done. Some out of town work involved during summer months. Must have driver license and be a non-smoker. Willing to train. Learn the job and become a crew leader, Good pay but hard and dirty work. The lazy need not apply. Hiring May 1st.

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