After the pollen has fallen, be sure to wash your log home. Then do a walk around inspection looking for areas of failing caulk joints. Winter drafts, even from the smallest crack, can really cause the heat bill to rise.  Take the time to remove any failing caulk, clean the joint and re-apply a quailty caulk. After the caulk is applied, it needs to be “tooled” to ensure good adhesion. Also, don’t use the “big box ” store caulking.  Use caulking especially formalated to accommodate log movement. For more information click here.

Almost September and it seems the hottest days may be behind us. That means the cold weather is on it’s way.  That means it is time to start thinking about winterizing you log home. We will offer common sense tips over the next several weeks to help make sure your home is not only protected from the sun and rain , but also from the cold.

It is a good idea to apply a chlorine solution to the logs after stripping. Although the stripping process will remove any mold or mildew  that is visable, the spores can remain in cracks and checks that the stripper may not have reached. Once the new finish is applied it very likely the spores will grow and spread underneath the stain. This is evidenced by black spots appearing. If it can be removed by applying chlorine, then it is on the surface of the log and not a big problem.  However, if it can not be removed, it is under the finish. If that is the case, the only solution is to strip again. So, it is well worth the time it takes to apply chlorine. For more log home restoration tips click here.

Newly constructed log homes are usually stained and sealed as soon as the “dry in” is completed or shortly thereafter. Nothing wrong with that right? Well here are a few things that should be considered before applying a beautiful natural wood finish to your brand new log home.  (Learn More)

Mid summer and “the heat is on.”   The warmer months are the better months to apply sealers. However, on hot sunny days, the side of a log home, or deck for that matter, can get very hot. Too hot to apply a finish. If the wood gets too hot the stain can ” flash” making the carrier of the stain evaporate to quickly. This will keep the finish from absorbing properly and therefore preform poorly. In these conditions, it is best to always work on the shady side of the log home.

The debate among log home restoration contractors rages on as to the proper way to remove old finishes from a log surface. Use a chemical and blast it off with water pressure, or use crushed corn cob or other media and blast it off with compressed air. Those are the the two most used procedures.  (Read More)

Once the old finish (paint) was removed (media blasted) the wood was reconditioned and neutralized. An oil based sealer/ preservative was applied to the point of refusal by brush and “worked” into the wood.  This was a custom mix to match the existing finish on the garage.  The garage  finish is  latex with a clear top coat. The house finish is  oil  with a clear top coat. We prefer to use penetrating oils that not only absorb deep into the logs but will not crack, blister or peel.

This Log Home Restoration required media  blasting  removal of a fairly new coat of solid latex paint. The “hot pink” had to go!  Being a fresh coat, it was harder to remove than a finish several years old.  Crushed glass was used to “cut ” the thick coat.

After a chlorine wash to kill any mold and mildew, a coarse sanding will smooth the rough profile caused by the media blasting. Only a light sanding with coarse paper is required. Sanding too smooth will prevent a penetrating stain from absorbing properly.

During the log home restoration process if you go through the trouble of stripping your log home to bare wood, it is a good idea to apply a borate treatment to all the woodwork. Borate will help ward off and kill  most insects. It also helps preserve the wood making it less likely to rot. Two coats are generally applied using a sprayer. It can be brushed but, spraying is much faster and easier. The wood must be clean and bare so any finish left on the logs will prohibit penetration. Be sure the logs are stripped properly.

Also, a proper solution mixture is important. Too strong and there will be sodium crystals visible on the wood and can react to the new finish. Too weak and it will not do what it was ment to.  Hiring a professional will be money well spent. Lets do it right if we are going through all the trouble of stripping and applying a new finish.

When older decks need a few boards replaced because of splinters or cracks, oftentimes unless the board is notched out for a post or has an angled cut, the board can just be flipped over. The bottom side of the board is most likely in excellent condition. This will match the existing older boards much better than buying a new “green” piece of lumber. Do the repair work first, clean or strip the deck, let it dry and then apply the finish .  Most of the time this will work very well and blend nicely.