Log Home Restoration: Another Cedar Garage Door

Log Home Restoration: Decks and Docks

Log Home Restoration: Restoring More Than Logs

Log Home Restoration is generally thought of as repairing or improving the interior and exterior logs and other woodwork of a log home. This can be as simple as cleaning the home and applying a fresh coat of stain or can be as complicated as performing major rot repair and log replacement. However, another aspect of log home restoration that is often overlooked or thought to be beyond restoration is the roof. Specifically asphalt shingled roofs.

 

Many log homes as well as conventional homes today with asphalt shingled roofs are streaked or completely covered with a brownish-black stain. Many homeowners think these stains are signs of a worn out roof that must be replaced. Oftentimes though, depending on the age of the roof, a good cleaning is all that is needed.   

       

Log Home Restoration is generally thought of as repairing or improving the interior and exterior logs and other woodwork of a log home. This can be as simple as cleaning the home and applying a fresh coat of stain or can be as complicated as performing major rot repair and log replacement. However, another aspect of log home restoration that is often overlooked or thought to be beyond restoration is the roof. Specifically asphalt shingled roofs.

 

Many log homes as well as conventional homes today with asphalt shingled roofs are streaked or completely covered with a brownish-black stain. Many homeowners think these stains are signs of a worn out roof that must be replaced. Oftentimes though, depending on the age of the roof, a good cleaning is all that is needed.   

 

In the southeastern United States with the warm temperatures and high humidity, there is a growing problem with algae on roofs and particularly asphalt/fiberglass shingled roofs.

This algae is known as Gloeocapsa Magma which is identified by the brownish black stains. Usually it is noticed on the north side of the house first (where there is the least sun and the most moisture) and then spreads to other areas over time. In such a warm and moist climate, the only thing the algae needs is a food source to grow and spread. One food source is readily available in the form of limestone. Limestone is used as filler in the shingles.

 

With the ever increasing cost of petroleum used to manufacture asphalt shingles, companies needed to find a more economic way to produce the shingle so they introduced fiberglass. This reduced the asphalt, and made the shingle much stronger, but it also made the shingle much lighter in weight. Therefore shingle manufactures started adding a relatively cheap crushed limestone mixture to the asphalt shingle mainly as a filler. However, this created an entirely new problem. A food source for Gloeocapsa Magma.

 

So, is this algae a problem or just an eyesore? In the early stages, Goleocapsa Magma is more of an eyesore, but as it grows, it can become a significant problem.

Gloeocapsa Magma in some cases left untreated can become a health issue to some people with chronic breathing and allergy problems.

 

It also inhibits the shingle’s ability to reflect the UV rays of the sun. This in turn causes excessive heat build up in the attic which not only causes higher cooling costs, but also increases premature deterioration of the shingles. Another problem if let untreated, the algae buildup acts as a bed for leaves, dirt and pollen to collect creating a home for mold and mildew as well as having the ability to cause water to “dam” up under the shingles causing leaks. So it can be both an eyesore and a significant problem.

 

The best advice is to have it removed by a professional roof cleaning contractor when it becomes unsightly. The longer it stays on the roof and the more it spreads, the more likely there will be problems and it will only cost more to remove it.

 

There are a few different ways to remove the algae, but according to ARMA, (American Roofing Manufactures Association) a chlorine solution applied lightly, (meaning no pressure washing) and properly rinsed is the recommended and proper way. The other most commonly used methods are pressure washing and using Sodium Hydroxide. Pressure washing can easily remove the granules from the shingles as well as actually cut into the shingle. Sodium Hydroxde is a caustic degreaser often found in dish washing detergent and oven cleaner. Applied to an asphalt shingle, it can dilute the asphalt pigment resulting in loose granules and thin spots or holes in the shingles. I would not recommend Sodium Hydroxide.

 

Removing Goleocapsa Magma from your log home is a good idea, but only if it is done properly. The homeowner should have a reputable log home restoration contractor inspect the roof to determine if it is this particular algae and if the shingles are in good enough condition to be cleaned. Older shingles may actually need to be replaced. A reputable contractor should tell you if that is the case. Be careful who you call. It is very easy to have someone with their own interest in making a dollar tell you what they want you to know so to benefit themselves more than to benefit you. 

 

Log home restoration is really not complete if you are standing back admiring the beautiful new finish of your home and all you can see is ugly black streaks and stains all over the roof. So, restoring more than just the logs may be a good idea!

Log Home Restoration: A Quick Look At Stripping

Log Home Restoration: Stripping Handrails is a short video clip showing a log home that has been stripped and in the process of stripping the front stoop and handrails. Notice the flowing motion with the wand so as not to damage the wood.

Quick Tip: Deck Restoration

When staining a deck using an oil finish, be sure to saturate the butt ends of the decking boards several times. They will soak up an unbelievable amount of stain. The end grain is like little tunnels and the stain will travel far into the wood. Put plenty on until you are satisfied it is to the “point of refusal.” This is a good place for rot to begin so keep it sealed. By the way, log ends are the same…….so….don’t skimp on the sealer!!

Log Home Restoration: Chemical Stripping a Log Home

Log Home Restoration often involves Chemical Stripping the old finish to prepare the wood for a new coat. If you notice in the video, there is always someone on the inside checking for leaks. Many log home owners are surprised to find out their home WILL leak to some degree. The good part is that when a leak is discovered, it is marked and repaired during the caulking process.

Whats Wrong With This Picture?

Another log home restoration. This home was less than two years old.

The logs and deck were cleaned with bleach to remove mold and mildew by the homeowner. What is left from what was once a honey colored stain is more mold, mildew and water stains.

The bleach removed all the mildew on the surface, however, the homeowner was surprised at the black stains that remained. We were called and found these stains were under the finish! This is not the first time we have seen this. More and more newer log homes are having mold and mildew problems.

Although there is more than one reason causing this problem, the main culprit is high moisture content. Oftentimes log homes are stained/sealed just as soon as they are “dried in.”  Many times the logs may or may not have been properly cleaned prior to sealing. If cleaned, chances are they were too wet when sealed. The only way to know is to test with a moisture meter. If not properly cleaned; mold and mildew spores, dirt, pollen and other contaminants can hold moisture in.

Once the logs are sealed, the encapsulated wood is a breeding ground for not just mold and mildew but eventually log rot and insects. Not good for practically a brand new log home.

The Debate Goes On

 The debate among log home restoration contractors rages on as to the proper way to remove old finishes from a log surface. Use a chemical and blast it off with water pressure, or use crushed corn cob and blast it off with compressed air. Those are the choices. 

The contractor that prefers chemicals and a pressure washer will tell you that cob blasting will pit the wood, create much unwanted dust inside and outside the home and cost twice as much as chemical stripping. 

The contractor that prefers cob blasting will tell you the chemical and pressure washing process will make the wood “fuzzy” and the pressure of the water will shoot through the walls and get inside the house causing water damage and mildew problems.

 Both are legitimate concerns and although both statements are true to some degree, to the homeowner neither chemical nor cob blasting sounds like a viable option. 

However, when properly executed, both have their place and are very effective methods for removing different types of finishes. When improperly used, both can cause extensive damage not only to the logs, but also to metal trim, glass, vinyl as well as causing damage to the inside of your log home from excessive dust and or water. Needless to say, only the most experienced professional should be allowed to use either method on your log home.

 At TASKMASTERS WOOD MAINTENANCE, we use both methods depending on the job at hand. Most log homes today still have oil based stains and sealers on them. In this case chemical stripping is the preferred method of removing these coatings. 

 There are however exceptions. Some of the harder “film forming” stains including linseed oil based stains and latex stains and paints may not respond well to chemical stripping and will have to be removed by cob blasting. These are usually few and far between, however as latex stains grow in popularity so will cob blasting.

 With chemical stripping, it is all about the process, not the pressure! The chemical is the tool that does the work, not the pressure washer. The pressure washer we use is more for the volume of water (six gallons per minute) rather than the pressure. We start by mixing a weak solution of stripper and apply it to the logs by spray. It is allowed to “dwell” for a predetermined length of time. At this point we do a test spot to see how the sealer responds to the stripper. If needed, we will adjust the solution to an optimal strength to remove the sealer in an efficient manner but in such a way as to minimize “furring” to the wood. Depending on the sealer, some “furring” of the wood is to be expected. This is easily removed using defelting pads later in the process. 

While chemical stripping, my wife is on the inside of the log home checking for leaks. And there will be leaks. We have never restored a log home yet that did not leak to some degree. Even the most expensive log homes leak….It’s still a log!

 Leaks are not necessarily bad. The water is really a good indicator to pinpoint where the home does have leaks. As the leaks are found, we will tag the spot where the leak occurred so that we can come back later and address the issue by caulking, weather stripping, chinking or whatever means is necessary to remedy the leak making the house weather tight. 

Once the stripping is completed, it must be neutralized and allowed sufficient time to dry before sealing. This usually takes two to four days, but the only way to know for sure is to test with a moisture meter. An 18% moisture content or lower is required before any type of finish is applied.

This method of removing old finishes is safe and reliable if used properly.  However, to the inexperienced, too strong of a chemical mix and you can not only “fur” the wood, but it can actually soften the wood to the point it must be replaced. Too much pressure and you can not only “fur” the wood, but you can gouge out the wood, as well as cause damage to other areas of the home such as siding and windows.

Be sure you have someone that knows what they are doing and chemical stripping is a viable solution to removing old finishes. 

With Cob Blasting, really the same thing holds true. It’s the process. The name itself scares some people because they are not familiar with this process. Blasting consist of using compressed air and a lot of it (at least 185cfms) and mixing it with some type of media, in this case ground up or crushed corn cob. The mix is then blown out of a nozzle toward the log surface where it impacts at great force, knocking off the old finish. Corn cob is used because it is relatively soft and will not damage the underlying wood (if you know how to use it.) 

One of the biggest problems with cob blasting is the copious amounts of dust. The average house may use as much as a ton or more of corn cob media. That is a lot of media blowing around, and it will get in every, and I mean every nook, cranny, crevasse, and corner there is inside and out of the home. We cover all the flat surfaces and furniture as well as put plastic up around the perimeter of the inside of the home to help confine the dust to the walls and not out into the rooms, but some still manages to get by. 

The other problem with cob blasting is it takes off a layer of wood and leaves a profile in the wood. Depending on how good the operator is will determine how much wood and how deep the profile will be. This is a harsh process but like the advantage of chemical stripping locates leaks, the profile left by the blasting creates a good “tooth” and porous surface to accept the new stain. 

Chemical stripping and cob blasting both have advantages and disadvantages.  Used in the right situation by an experienced operator, they both have a place in the log home restoration process. To put one above the other would be limiting the means by which to be able to remove a particular coating from the log surface. So after an assessment has been made of the existing finish to determine it’s type, then an educated decision can be made as to the best method to use to remove the finish.

When the facts are known about cob blasting and chemical stripping, there really should be no debate. So, I hereby declare the chemical strip vs. cob blasting debate resolved.

Home Sweet Home

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have been known to get a nap in the swing from time to time. Usually in the winter when things tend to slow down some. Shortly after this picture was taken, we  re-sealed the deck boards. The house was done last year but we got too busy and just never got around to doing the decks. But with presistance from the wife, we made time and now …..everybody is happy.

Stripping Latex

In this deckvideo, we were asked to remove a solid latex stain from the homeowners front porch. Deck Restoration is pretty much the same as Log Home Restoration, but being a horizontal surface, there are a few things to keep in mind. We will go into this further in another post.  On this job, the weather was cold which slows down the chemical reaction, but applied properly, the latex can be removed quiet easily. However, some areas may take a second applacation, especially around knots, nail heads  and between boards. Notice also, the operator has the lance tip very close to the wood. Care must be taken when using pressure this close to the surface so that no damage or excessive “fuzzing” occurs. The trick in this case is to keep moving …fast!

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