Log Home Restoration: Interior Media Blasting
On our You Tube channel are two new media blasting videos of the interior of a newly constructed log home. The logs were left unprotected for two years before they were finally erected. Weathered wood, clay and mildew had to be removed so we did a light media blast to remove a minute layer of wood from the logs. We then sanded with #40 grit sand paper to smooth the profile. Finally, two interior finish coats were applied by brush. Check them out at: www.youtube.com/taskmasters3
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Chinking Problems
This chinking was only a few years old. The product was a quality product. The problem however was twofold. First, the backer was a type of styrofoam that the chinking stuck to making it unable to move with the logs. Logs will expand, shrink and settle over time, therefore the chinking must be able to move as well.
With the proper backer it allows the chinking to adhere to the top and bottom of the logs only so that it only has to stretch two ways, up and down. It is not restricted by being attacthed to the face of the backer.
Second. the applacation was too thin. Most of the chinking was paper thin, 1/16 inch or less. To have enough elasticity to move between such a wide gap (4 inches), a thickness of 3/8 to 1/2 inch is recommended. This will allow the chinking to act like a rubber band. As it stretchs, it get thinner, and as in this case, too thin, and it will break.
So, correct intallation of backer rod and proper applacation of the chinking is important if it is expected to last. Proper chinking can get expensive because it is slow tedious work. But if it is rushed to save money, it will show down the road. This is another….You get what you pay for.
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Roof Cleaning: Nothing But The Facts Please (Part One)
Roof cleaning is becoming more and more popular especially in the Southeastern United States because of an airborne algae called “Gloeocapsa Magma”. It is identified by the black streaks and stains that are mainly found on the north facing side of the roof, but does spread to the entire roof eventually.
For Gloeocapsa Magma to grow, it has to have heat, moisture and a food source. The heat and moisture source is easily provided by the warm and humid Southeastern climate. The food source is mainly provided from limestone fillers found in asphalt shingles.
Limestone was introduced to the shingle manufacturing process when oil prices started to escalate some years ago. Asphalt impregnated material was used in the shingles to add weight and substance to the shingle. To save on rising petroleum cost, and ultimately shingle costs, the manufactures substituted limestone in place of some of the asphalt material. Limestone being relatively cheap and dense was an ideal substitute. However, limestone also feeds Gloeocapsa Magma. Feeding off of the warm temperatures, high humidity and limestone in the shingles for food, if left unattended, the algae can cause some significant damage over time.
In the beginning this algae is more of an eyesore than anything, and can be easily removed. Left on the roof, it will keep spreading until it covers the entire roof. At this point it becomes food for mildew and lichens and this is where the real trouble starts. Be careful! Many times a roofer will be called in to inspect the roof and some roofers will tell the homeowner that they need a new roof and in some cases, that may be so. But, too many times just a cleaning will suffice saving the homeowner thousands of dollars.
However, left unattended, the mildew will build up over time until there is a substantial layer of which can breed mildew. The mildew builds up to a point that moss will begin to grow. Moss can the lead to Lichens and Lichens have little tentacles that grow down into the shingle. Once the tentacles get established, they are very hard to remove and in the process, some of the shingle grit will be dislodged leaving pits or holes in the shingles.
So it is recommended to remove the stains before it gets that bad. The best time to clean the roof is in the warmer months and when the algae covers 30% to 40% of the north roof. By this time it is likely that is has spread to other areas of the roof and will only be a matter of time before it begins to show. The longer you wait, the harder and more costly to remove.
Now the question becomes, how do you remove it. In part two we will discuss the two most popular removal techniques, and the right removal technique.
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LOG HOME RESTORATION: Quick Tip
Carpenter Bees will return to their nest the following year if the holes are not plugged. One way to handle this problem is first spray the hole with WD-40. This will kill any bees or eggs. Then fill hole with expanding foam. After it dries, cut off any excess and then insert a 1/2 dowell. I usually buy 3 foot lenghts at the local hardware store. Tap the dowell in using a hammer until it is tight. Then saw off the excess. A hack saw blade works well because it can be bent or bowed to follow the contour of the log. After it has been cut off, tap againg with a hammer a few times and that will flatten the dowell and fill any voids between the dowell and the log leaving a smooth finish. Touch up the repair with sealer and you have almost an invisible patch.
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Right & Wrong
Sloppy caulking seems to be more and more common these days. It only takes a minute longer to “tool” it in and then clean up. Not only does it make the homeowner happy, but being installed properly will increase the life of caulked joint.
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Quick Tip
Water splash back caused all this rot.
If your log home has a deck, you have a potential mildew and rot problem waiting to happen. Water running off the roof and splashing back onto the logs can cause some major damage in a relatively short period of time if not addressed. The best solution would be to put a roof over the deck to keep the water away from the wood altogether. The next best thing is to keep a close eye on the logs and keep any mildew cleaned off. Also, make sure a good finish is applied and more importantly maintained. The wood must be kept dry and protected. It is much easier to brush some stain on the wood as needed rather than having the expense of replacing logs.
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Log Home Restoration:Facts About Painting Trim
Applied 2 coats Benjamin Moore latex semi-gloss
[/caption]Most log home restoration consists of stripping off failed finishes, caulking and or chinking and applying a new sealer. However, there are a few log homes that accent the trim, doors and windows and maybe the shutters to contrast with the logs. Although I prefer a solid oil stain rather than a latex paint, some homeowners want to use paint.
Painting the trim with contrasting colors or shades can make your home look great and really make it “pop”. You can personalize it by adding as much detail as you like, but appearance is not everything. The main purpose is to protect the wood.
Painting as with staining requires preparation. There are a few basic steps to doing it the proper way, and you get out of it what you put into it. With the amount of labor involved to apply the paint, it is worth putting forth the extra effort to insure that the paint will adhere properly resulting in maximum performance.
To prepare your home for a fresh coat of paint, it first should be cleaned thoroughly.
The best method is pressure cleaning using a chlorine and TSP (trisodium phosphate) solution. Chlorine is used to kill and remove mildew from the painted surface while the TSP removes dirt, pollen, grease and other pollutants. The TSP also removes any glossy finish that will hinder proper adhesion of the new coating. This is normally done along with the overall house preparation.
After cleaning, a close inspection should reveal any problems with insects, loose or missing nails or screws as well as any wood rot or other damage. Rot or soft wood needs to be addressed at this point. Depending on the severity of the wood rot will dictate what repairs will be needed.
Loose and flaking paint should first be scraped, then sanded and feathered out leaving a smooth transition from the bare wood to the existing painted wood so as not to leave any visible lines or ridges that may show when the final coat of paint is applied. Once sanded, a good primer should be applied followed by the top coat. Caulking around windows, doors and trim should be inspected and replaced if dried out and cracked using a high quality latex caulk.
At this point, the woodwork is ready for coating. Make sure to use the best paint you can afford for your project. With such an undertaken, the longevity of the paint will determine how long before the process will have to be repeated. The better the paint, the longer it will last. Because of the relatively small amount of wood involved, the preferred application method is by brush. Spraying can be used, but must always be back brushed and trimmed out so as to work the paint into the wood to achieve proper coverage and adhesion. Spraying alone only allows the paint to set on the surface. On larger log home restoration projects or multiple units, it may be beneficial to spray, but be sure to mask off and tape surrounding areas from overspray. If the wind is blowing at all, be careful. Paint spray can travel a great distance and settle as far away as the neighbor’s deck, car or other horizontal surfaces.
Following these simple but necessary steps will insure that your log home will be protected from the elements for many years to come. Taking short cuts in the preparation, using inferior products and improper application will not only shorten the lifespan of the paint, but will make it more difficult to prepare the surface the next time painting is needed.
On your next exterior painting project, take the time to do it right and it will not only look great, but also last for many years. In the meantime, if you have any question, contact us, we love to help.
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