Roof Cleaning: Nothing But The Facts Please (Part One)

Roof cleaning is becoming more and more popular especially in the Southeastern United States because of an airborne algae called “Gloeocapsa Magma”. It is identified by the black streaks and stains that are mainly found on the north facing side of the roof, but does spread to the entire roof eventually.

 

For Gloeocapsa Magma to grow, it has to have heat, moisture and a food source. The heat and moisture source is easily provided by the warm and humid Southeastern climate. The food source is mainly provided from limestone fillers found in asphalt shingles.

 

 Limestone was introduced to the shingle manufacturing process when oil prices started to escalate some years ago. Asphalt impregnated material was used in the shingles to add weight and substance to the shingle. To save on rising petroleum cost, and ultimately shingle costs, the manufactures substituted limestone in place of some of the asphalt material.  Limestone being relatively cheap and dense was an ideal substitute. However, limestone also feeds Gloeocapsa Magma. Feeding off of the warm temperatures, high humidity and limestone in the shingles for food, if left unattended, the algae can cause some significant damage over time. 

 

In the beginning this algae is more of an eyesore than anything, and can be easily removed. Left on the roof, it will keep spreading until it covers the entire roof. At this point it becomes food for mildew and lichens and this is where the real trouble starts. Be careful! Many times a roofer will be called in to inspect the roof and some roofers will tell the homeowner that they need a new roof and in some cases, that may be so. But, too many times just a cleaning will suffice saving the homeowner thousands of dollars.

 

However, left unattended, the mildew will build up over time until there is a substantial layer of which can breed mildew. The mildew builds up to a point that moss will begin to grow. Moss can the lead to Lichens and Lichens have little tentacles that grow down into the shingle. Once the tentacles get established, they are very hard to remove and in the process, some of the shingle grit will be dislodged leaving pits or holes in the shingles.

 

So it is recommended to remove the stains before it gets that bad. The best time to clean the roof is in the warmer months and when the algae covers 30% to 40% of the north roof. By this time it is likely that is has spread to other areas of the roof and will only be a matter of time before it begins to show. The longer you wait, the harder and more costly to remove.

 

Now the question becomes, how do you remove it. In part two we will discuss the two most popular removal techniques, and the right removal technique.

Have You Seen This On Your Log Home?

While working around the southeastern United States, I have come across many newer log homes (between 1 and 3 years old) that the finish is not only failing, but the stain looks like it has black specks all through it in some places. I’m not talking about Artillery Fungus. That looks like little dots. These are specks or spots (for the lack of a better description). It is not in just one area, but can be found on all sides of the home. Sometimes worse on the shaded sides. Some of the black specks (or spots) can be wiped off by hand while others can not. The stain is of course faded more on the west and southern sides of the home, but seems to have no bearing on the amount of spots.

 

After taking a trim board down on a particular house and having it analyzed, it was determined that the spots were Black Mold! Returning to the house armed with chlorine, we begin to wipe off the mold using a chlorine and water solution. It came off great!…Until we got to areas where the stain was more intact like shaded areas, under eaves and other less worn areas. The chlorine did not remove it. Under closer examination, we determined that the mold was under the stain. Yes, under the stain!

 

Remember, we were seeing this on many different houses and are still seeing it today.

Well, One day we were working on a house stripping the old sealer off and next door was a newly constructed log home that had recently been “dried in.” We don’t do much new construction and I wanted to inspect it closer. I walked over to have a look at the house. It was laid out nice, wrap around porch, two story decks on the back, cathedral ceilings, it was nice.

As I approached the front, it was unfinished (had no sealer on it). I could see the typical strap marks on the logs, footprints where people had walked on them while still on the ground, and these black spots! That is not unusual on bare wood especially if the contractor has taken a long time to finish the job due to weather or other issues that do happen. Well, not too alarmed, because usually at this point the mold and mildew is cleaned from the logs and allowed to dry before sealing, (or at least that is what we do).  So as I walk around the house, what do I find? This guy with an airless sprayer just having a ball! Stain flying everywhere! He was getting the job done! (Or use your own phrase).  I could not believe what I was seeing. The wall that was getting sealed was just like the front wall, footprints, strap marks and yes mold!

 

I stopped him to ask if he thought it was alright to stain over an un-prepped surface. His answer did not really surprise me. He told me, in a rather unfriendly tone, “Unless someone is around to stop me, it gets sprayed.”  I did not know him and there was no signage on his truck. The builder was gone and no way to contact him. We had a short conversation, and I walked away.

 

I hope this is not the normal practice when finishing log homes, but it does help explain what I have been seeing on my jobs. Mold under stain can be caused by many legitimate reasons. Wood stored in damp locations prior to construction can cause major mold and mildew problems. Moisture content of the logs above 18% when sealed is another factor. These issues are supposed to be addressed prior to sealing (usually) by pressure cleaning the home using a chlorine/TSP solution. The chlorine not only removes mold and mildew, but also kills the spores deep into the wood. TSP is used for removing dirt, clay and other pollutants from the surface leaving the pores of the wood open and ready to receive the sealer.

 

However, from my experience and coming to my own conclusions, it seems likely that some newly constructed homes are never properly cleaned prior to sealing. Two things are happening. The mildew although maybe not seen at the time of stain application is growing and at some point shows up through the existing stain and keeps growing. Also, the stain is failing prematurely because of not only the mold between it and the wood surface, but also the stain never adhered properly to the wood because of the mold as well as the moisture content of the wood itself. If the wood had been dry (at least at 15% moisture content) the mold would not have appeared to begin with.

 

Now the problem becomes how to remedy the issue. No easy way out now. The original stain must be removed either by chemical stripping if it is an oil stain or cob blasting if it is a latex. A chlorine solution is then applied to kill any remaining mold or mildew. Oxalic Acid is then used to neutralize the chlorine and stripper in the wood then the wood is allowed to dry completely to a moisture content of at least 15% or lower. The only way to know the moisture content is to use a moisture meter to probe the wood. Anything else is just a guess. At this point the new stain/sealer can be applied and should be applied within at least a two week timeframe. Any later than this and you risk running into more mold and mildew problems.

 

If your home has black spots or specks on the wood and a chlorine solution will not remove it, there is a good chance you have mold or mildew under the stain. It could be a couple of other things, but that is another story. The best advice is to call a professional and they can determine whether there is mold or mildew or some other problem causing your stain to not look it’s best. Log home restoration is more than washing the logs and spraying a fast coat of stain on the wood.  For the new log home owner, it is best to do your home work before jumping in what might be a costly adventure.

Log Home Restoration: Quick Tip

When stripping a log home remember when using a pressure washer, it is not the pressure of the water but the volume that does the work. Many logs and trim for that matter have been damaged because of excessive water pressure in the hands of the inexpereniced. To do a good job of stripping, a pressure washer of at least 5 gallons per minuite should be used. As a reference, a pressure washer a typical homeowner owns is around 3 gpm, almost half of what is needed. Because of the small amount of water being pumped, most people will compensate by using the pressure closer to the wood, that can go as high 3500 psi, more than enough to damage the logs. If a high pressure washer is going to br used, the only way around this problem is to use a larger diameter tip. With a larger tip the pressure will drop but so will the speed at which you can strip. So either access a larger volume pressure washer, or hire a professional that has the proper equipment. May cost more, but far cheaper than repairing damaged logs.

LOG HOME RESTORATION: Quick Tip

Carpenter Bees will return to their nest the following year if the holes are not plugged. One way to handle this problem is first spray the hole with WD-40. This will kill any bees or eggs. Then fill hole with expanding foam. After it dries, cut off any excess and then insert a 1/2 dowell. I usually buy 3 foot lenghts at the local hardware store. Tap the dowell in using a hammer until it is tight. Then saw off the excess. A hack saw blade works well because it can be bent or bowed to follow the contour of the log. After it has been cut off, tap againg with a hammer a few times and that will flatten the dowell and fill any voids between the dowell and the log leaving a smooth finish. Touch up the repair with sealer and you have almost an invisible patch.

QUICK TIP

Stripper works well removing oil based stains from decks. However, If the deck has no finish and is very oild with green “crusty” wood, stripper does a good job at cleaning too. Just be careful to not get it too “hot” and neutralize.

If you have questions visit www.taskmasters3.com

Clear Sealers: A Good Idea?

I have found through the years what seems to be a common thread among most newly constructed log homes, and log home owners who seek truthful answers concerning their log home restoration.

 

Most, if not all of the log homes are sealed with a clear sealer or a clear sealer with toner added to give the log home the “natural look.” Most are only 1 to 2 years old and are turning black in places. The logs are looking gray as well as a substantial amount of wood discoloration caused from water splash back along the bottom run of logs at or near the decks and at the dormers along the roof line.

                                                                                                                                               Most, if not all of the log home owners like the “natural” look of the logs when first sealed and want to keep that look. Most expected the sealers to last longer than 1 or 2 years, and most if not all are dissatisfied with the overall performance.

 

After understanding what a “natural” or “clear” sealer is, you may want to reconsider what to put back on your log home or log cabin.  If a clear has been applied to your logs, it is not a stain, but rather a sealer. Clear sealers do little more than repel water to some degree. Although it may provide some protection from water, it can actually do more harm than good by sealing water in as well as out.

 

Actually, UV rays are far more detrimental to the logs than water. Therefore blocking the sun rays is of greater importance than blocking the water.

 

Blocking sun rays or “UV” rays is accomplished by adding Iron Oxide pigment to the stain or sealer. The pigment not only blocks UV rays, but it also reflects the UV rays as well as adds color to the coating. The more pigment that is added, the darker the color. Therefore, the darker the color, the more protection from UV rays. So if the darker colors provide the most protection, then it stands to reason, the lighter colors (or clear) provides the least protection.

 

Everyone loves the “natural” look on their logs. The problem is that the natural look is either a clear sealer or a clear sealer with a toner usually of a honey color to mimic that natural look. Here in-lies the problem; Light toners have very little pigment, therefore very little protection.

 

So, it is a trade off. The natural look (that everyone loves) with little protection, or a darker color with more protection.

Please be aware that if you use a natural or lighter color, you will have to recoat every year, and then you may have trouble with mildew and graying wood. It is recommended to use the darkest color and still suits your taste. A “middle of the road” color such as a pecan is a good choice. Still relatively light, it has a substantial amount of pigment to provide reasonable protection from the elements.

 

Earlier I stated that a clear sealer could do more harm than good. Most (but not all) clear sealers do exactly that, they seal the wood. They do seal water out just like advertised, but they can also seal water, dirt and mildew in. If the wood is not completely dry, (dry being considered at least a 12% moisture content or lower,) the water trapped behind the sealer is going to escape. As this happens, micro cracks are formed on the backside of the sealer and are invisible to the eye. When the logs contract and expand (due to temperature changes) these cracks will surface. When this happens, the logs can then absorb more moisture and attract mildew compounding the problem. The cycle continues until the sealer fails, the logs turn gray and black mildew is present.

 

Now there are two options; wash the logs with bleach which will kill the mildew, let the wood dry and apply another coat of sealer. Not the best choice considering the sealer to be recoated is already cracking and failing.

 

The other option (recommended) is to remove the failing sealer by using a chemical stripping process and then apply a pigmented oil based stain. You not only will have a coating that will not crack or peel but with a dark pigment, you will get better performance than a natural or clear sealer.

 

Unless the log home owner is willing to do the extra maintenance required to keep that “natural” look, good quality oil based pigmented stain would be a more particle finish.

Quick Tip

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

During your log home restoration, if the existing stain is going to be removed by stripping or media blasting, it is highly recommended to apply a borate treatment. Borate is an excellent fungicide and insecticide that is applied to bare wood. Every log home should be treated if nothing more than as a safeguard. It is not that costly and the benifits will far outweigh that cost. Remember, it has to be applied to bare wood and usually requires two coats.

It is not a “cure all” but is another tool to stave off what could turn into costly repairs. Remember, log homes are high maintenance. Neglect is not an option.

Log Home Restoration: Chinking

 

 

 

 

 

Log Home Chinking can be applied different ways. Depending on the look the log home owner wants will determine which technique will be used and even the type of chinking used.

On this log home restoration in South Carolina, we taped each chink line. This makes a clean and neat line. When doing it this way, it is important to not leave the tape on too long.  The longer the tape is left on, the harder it is to remove. But it has to stay on long enough for the chinking to “skin” over. However, removing it too soon and the chinking can run. Waiting too long and the chinking will stick to the tape, pulling it out of the joint.

The weather and sun will dictate how long to leave the tape on. After a few runs have been applied, you get a “feel” for the drying time of the chinking and can carefully pull the tape slowly while lifting only slightly and in short (2-3 feet) sections. It is not hard, but it is a slow and somewhat tedious process.

Right & Wrong

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sloppy caulking seems to be more and more common these days. It only takes a minute longer to “tool” it in and then clean up. Not only does it make the homeowner happy, but being installed properly will increase the life of caulked joint.

Had To Throw This In

    

 

 

 

 

 

I told her to smile, not stick out her tongue.

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