Putting on the “Top Coat”

Some homeowners are concerned when they see this white coat going over the new stain. Most think it is paint.

This clear coat looks “milky” being applied, but dries to a light sheen. Looks very nice and adds another layer of protection. Very durable as well.

Log Home Restoration: Before Restoration Comes Consideration (Before You Build or Buy)

Log Home Restoration is a matter of time. Time before that existing finish, caulking, chinking or other woodwork will need attention. Some of the problems that occur that require restoration could be avoided altogether if the potential log home owner knew what to look for before purchasing that dream home. Consider the following before building or buying your log home. 

While water is a major issue with log homes, the sun is just as much a concern, if not more so than water. The sun (UV rays) can cause irreversible damage to the logs and any wood for that matter in a relatively short period of time. Wood before it is cut down and milled has  moisture in the form of water, sap, oils, etc. in it. Once cut and milled it begins to dry out. As it dries, it will shrink and split causing “checks” or cracks. 

 This is where the trouble can start. Once the checks have opened up, water can get in and over a period of time mildew and mold will begin to grow and eventually the wood will rot. Also, wet and rotting wood is food for insects. Rotten logs are the homeowner’s biggest problem and greatest expense.  To avoid these problems, a few things should be considered when building or purchasing a log home. 

 Every log home, without exception should be built high enough off the ground so that water can not “splash back” onto the logs. A minimum of three feet from the logs to the ground should be sufficient. But, even higher is better. Next, roof over hangs (eves) should be no less than 24 inches to help keep rain water off the logs. The ideal log home would be one that had a wrap around porch on all four sides. This would keep the two biggest enemies, sun and water, away from the logs. 

One of the biggest problems with log homes is splash back off of decks onto the logs. There really is no good solution to this problem other than putting a roof over the deck like mentioned earlier with the wrap around porch. This will solve the problem but in some cases it may not be practical or the homeowner may just enjoy sunning out on the deck or looking up at night and seeing the stars. 

So if a roof is not an option, then it is imperative to make sure the logs have a good coat of stain constantly. At least every year re-apply a good quality stain and allow the wood to absorb as much of the stain as possible. Inspect these areas often and at the first sign of wear or of a mildew problem, address it immediately. 

Another important area of the log home to watch are the log end corners. The ends of the logs should not extend past the roof overhang. If they do, when it rains, water will be constantly running on them. It would be a good idea to have the ends cut back far enough so that the runoff from the roof will not affect the logs and become a problem. Log ends are very porous and the water will absorb or “wick” very easily into the end grain. There are products made to seal the log ends that work well, but if these are not used, a good coat of stain should be applied annually. Gutters are an option as well. However, gutters only help and are not a “cure all.” 

Finally, anything laying up against the logs or standing within a few inches should be moved away. Many times I have seen firewood stacked up either on a porch, deck or on the ground next to the house. Termite heaven! Get it away from and off the deck or porch.

Gas propane tanks, charcoal grilles, yard furniture or anything that can cause water to splash onto the logs or cause poor air circulation should all be removed and stored elsewhere. It is much easier not to mention cheaper to find a suitable place to put yard items and the such than it is to have someone come and remove and replace rotten logs. 

There are a host of other things that can damage your log home. These are just a few to think about. Although these are common sense issues, they may not always come to mind when you are considering purchasing a log home. Take time to educate yourself about the difference in log homes and conventional homes. After all, at first glance, they look somewhat indestructible. But looks can be deceiving as they say.

A Bit of a Challenge

This 6000 square foot log home was a challenge. Why? Because there was absolutly no shade, we were applying a latex semi-transparent stain, it was four coats and in the middle of July.

The heat was not so much of the problem as the sun beating down on the logs. A latex stain will dry way too fast if applied in direct sunlight anytime. Add 95 degrees temperature and up and you better find some shade.

So, we worked around the house…. as the sun moved….so did we, staying on the shady side. It was still hot, but the logs were cool enough to accept the stain and have time to absorb into the wood. 

All in all….it went pretty well…..a little slow, but it was done right, the customer was happy….and if the customer is happy……..

Chinking Problems

This chinking was only a few years old. The product was a quality product. The problem however was twofold. First, the backer was a type of styrofoam that the chinking stuck to making it unable to move with the logs. Logs will expand, shrink and settle over time, therefore the chinking must be able to move as well.

With the proper backer it allows the chinking to adhere to the top and bottom of the logs only so that it only has to stretch two ways, up and down. It is not restricted by being attacthed to the face of the backer. 

Second. the applacation was too thin. Most of the chinking was paper thin, 1/16 inch or less. To have enough elasticity to move between such a wide gap (4 inches), a thickness of 3/8 to 1/2 inch is recommended. This will allow the chinking to act like a rubber band. As it stretchs, it get thinner, and as in this case, too thin, and it will break.

 So, correct intallation of backer rod and proper applacation of the chinking is important if it is expected to last. Proper chinking can get expensive because it is slow tedious work. But if it is rushed to save money, it will show down the road.  This is another….You get what you pay for.

   

 

Whats Wrong With This Picture?

Another log home restoration. This home was less than two years old.

The logs and deck were cleaned with bleach to remove mold and mildew by the homeowner. What is left from what was once a honey colored stain is more mold, mildew and water stains.

The bleach removed all the mildew on the surface, however, the homeowner was surprised at the black stains that remained. We were called and found these stains were under the finish! This is not the first time we have seen this. More and more newer log homes are having mold and mildew problems.

Although there is more than one reason causing this problem, the main culprit is high moisture content. Oftentimes log homes are stained/sealed just as soon as they are “dried in.”  Many times the logs may or may not have been properly cleaned prior to sealing. If cleaned, chances are they were too wet when sealed. The only way to know is to test with a moisture meter. If not properly cleaned; mold and mildew spores, dirt, pollen and other contaminants can hold moisture in.

Once the logs are sealed, the encapsulated wood is a breeding ground for not just mold and mildew but eventually log rot and insects. Not good for practically a brand new log home.

The Debate Goes On

 The debate among log home restoration contractors rages on as to the proper way to remove old finishes from a log surface. Use a chemical and blast it off with water pressure, or use crushed corn cob and blast it off with compressed air. Those are the choices. 

The contractor that prefers chemicals and a pressure washer will tell you that cob blasting will pit the wood, create much unwanted dust inside and outside the home and cost twice as much as chemical stripping. 

The contractor that prefers cob blasting will tell you the chemical and pressure washing process will make the wood “fuzzy” and the pressure of the water will shoot through the walls and get inside the house causing water damage and mildew problems.

 Both are legitimate concerns and although both statements are true to some degree, to the homeowner neither chemical nor cob blasting sounds like a viable option. 

However, when properly executed, both have their place and are very effective methods for removing different types of finishes. When improperly used, both can cause extensive damage not only to the logs, but also to metal trim, glass, vinyl as well as causing damage to the inside of your log home from excessive dust and or water. Needless to say, only the most experienced professional should be allowed to use either method on your log home.

 At TASKMASTERS WOOD MAINTENANCE, we use both methods depending on the job at hand. Most log homes today still have oil based stains and sealers on them. In this case chemical stripping is the preferred method of removing these coatings. 

 There are however exceptions. Some of the harder “film forming” stains including linseed oil based stains and latex stains and paints may not respond well to chemical stripping and will have to be removed by cob blasting. These are usually few and far between, however as latex stains grow in popularity so will cob blasting.

 With chemical stripping, it is all about the process, not the pressure! The chemical is the tool that does the work, not the pressure washer. The pressure washer we use is more for the volume of water (six gallons per minute) rather than the pressure. We start by mixing a weak solution of stripper and apply it to the logs by spray. It is allowed to “dwell” for a predetermined length of time. At this point we do a test spot to see how the sealer responds to the stripper. If needed, we will adjust the solution to an optimal strength to remove the sealer in an efficient manner but in such a way as to minimize “furring” to the wood. Depending on the sealer, some “furring” of the wood is to be expected. This is easily removed using defelting pads later in the process. 

While chemical stripping, my wife is on the inside of the log home checking for leaks. And there will be leaks. We have never restored a log home yet that did not leak to some degree. Even the most expensive log homes leak….It’s still a log!

 Leaks are not necessarily bad. The water is really a good indicator to pinpoint where the home does have leaks. As the leaks are found, we will tag the spot where the leak occurred so that we can come back later and address the issue by caulking, weather stripping, chinking or whatever means is necessary to remedy the leak making the house weather tight. 

Once the stripping is completed, it must be neutralized and allowed sufficient time to dry before sealing. This usually takes two to four days, but the only way to know for sure is to test with a moisture meter. An 18% moisture content or lower is required before any type of finish is applied.

This method of removing old finishes is safe and reliable if used properly.  However, to the inexperienced, too strong of a chemical mix and you can not only “fur” the wood, but it can actually soften the wood to the point it must be replaced. Too much pressure and you can not only “fur” the wood, but you can gouge out the wood, as well as cause damage to other areas of the home such as siding and windows.

Be sure you have someone that knows what they are doing and chemical stripping is a viable solution to removing old finishes. 

With Cob Blasting, really the same thing holds true. It’s the process. The name itself scares some people because they are not familiar with this process. Blasting consist of using compressed air and a lot of it (at least 185cfms) and mixing it with some type of media, in this case ground up or crushed corn cob. The mix is then blown out of a nozzle toward the log surface where it impacts at great force, knocking off the old finish. Corn cob is used because it is relatively soft and will not damage the underlying wood (if you know how to use it.) 

One of the biggest problems with cob blasting is the copious amounts of dust. The average house may use as much as a ton or more of corn cob media. That is a lot of media blowing around, and it will get in every, and I mean every nook, cranny, crevasse, and corner there is inside and out of the home. We cover all the flat surfaces and furniture as well as put plastic up around the perimeter of the inside of the home to help confine the dust to the walls and not out into the rooms, but some still manages to get by. 

The other problem with cob blasting is it takes off a layer of wood and leaves a profile in the wood. Depending on how good the operator is will determine how much wood and how deep the profile will be. This is a harsh process but like the advantage of chemical stripping locates leaks, the profile left by the blasting creates a good “tooth” and porous surface to accept the new stain. 

Chemical stripping and cob blasting both have advantages and disadvantages.  Used in the right situation by an experienced operator, they both have a place in the log home restoration process. To put one above the other would be limiting the means by which to be able to remove a particular coating from the log surface. So after an assessment has been made of the existing finish to determine it’s type, then an educated decision can be made as to the best method to use to remove the finish.

When the facts are known about cob blasting and chemical stripping, there really should be no debate. So, I hereby declare the chemical strip vs. cob blasting debate resolved.

Home Sweet Home

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have been known to get a nap in the swing from time to time. Usually in the winter when things tend to slow down some. Shortly after this picture was taken, we  re-sealed the deck boards. The house was done last year but we got too busy and just never got around to doing the decks. But with presistance from the wife, we made time and now …..everybody is happy.

Log Home Restoration: Two Of The Most Asked Questions From New Log Home Owners

The following log home restoration questions are two of the most often asked by new log home owners. By new I mean, new to them and may or may not be a newly constructed log home. Oftentimes the owner or future owner knows very little about a log home except they love the look, they want one and what they have read in a log home magazine. Then comes REALITY!

This is not meant to scare people from buying a log home but to the contrary, educate them so they know what to expect when they have owned one for a few years and are starting to see signs of maintenance. Knowing what you are getting is much better than getting something you know little about and then finding out …“nobody told me about this or that.” 

These answers have been condensed. If the question is not answered to your satisfaction, please consult a professional that can go into more detail. 

Can you power wash my log home and apply another coat of stain? 

The answer is “yes” but is it the recommended way to maintain a log home finish? The answer is no. Power washing is only needed if the home has to be stripped meaning taking off the old stain.

Depending on the type of stain on the home will dictate the proper procedure for preparing and re-applying a new sealer. If it is a latex stain or paint and is intact, then a mild detergent with a small amount of bleach to kill any mildew spores applied with low or no pressure will work fine. A garden sprayer or a bucket and brush can be used to apply the solution.

Working from the bottom to the top and in sections (to prevent streaking) a light brushing should remove any dirt, pollen, mildew or other contaminants. Once cleaned a garden hose is all that is needed to rinse the debris from the logs and other woodwork.

If any existing stain comes off while cleaning in this manner, there is a good possibility the home needs to be stripped. If the stain comes off that easy with a brush, it must have poor adhesion and a new stain should not be applied on top of a stain that is coming off. If the stain is intact then a new stain can be applied after the wood has had sufficient drying time. If it is an oil based stain, consult a professional.

 My log home is only two years old and the honey colored stain is fading badly and it also has black stuff that some will come off and some will not. With it being only two years old, what’s the problem? 

There are several things going on at once in this situation. With the home being only two years old indicates that more likely than not the logs were not cleaned properly prior to sealing. With new construction homes the best method for sealing is first to do nothing. This usually don’t happen, but if the homeowner knew what was being done to their brand new home, they probably would think twice before staining as soon as the logs go up or shortly after.

The problem begins before the first log is laid. New logs have oftentimes been freshly cut down and are “green” or wet from water and tree sap. Some log home manufactures “kiln dry” their logs and that takes care of this problem. But most log home manufactures don’t have expensive oven kilns. 

 The next problem is “Mill Glaze.”  This is the bi-product of the milling process in which the logs are run through fast turning blades that shape the logs and cuts the tongue and groove. These fast turning blades heat the wood and in turn draws the sap to the surface. After the sap cools, it forms a film or “glaze on the surface and prevents any stain from penetrating. 

Finally, there is a good possibility the logs were not cleaned properly to remove not only dirt but more importantly mold and mildew. Too many times I have gone to a customer’s log home and found the same thing over and over again; logs that were not properly cleaned and prepped for sealing. 

What has happened is the logs were sealed shortly after construction, sometimes not being washed at all. Just because a log looks bright and clean does not necessarily mean it is. Usually it is not clean upon close inspection.

The result is a wet log that has mill glaze and most likely mold and mildew, even though it is not visible by the eye, and has been sealed. Any wood should have no more than a 20% moisture content before any type of finish is applied. The reason is because the finish will not adhere properly and the wood is a breeding ground for mold and mildew. Moreover, all this is being sealed in. So you have a log that has moisture, mold and mildew and it is sealed. Is it any wonder the finish is fading and turning black? 

All of this is can be easily avoided if the logs are allowed to “weather” for a short period of time. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the logs start to turn slightly gray. Then do a thorough cleaning using a chlorine and TSP solution. The chlorine will kill any mold and mildew and the TSP cleans the wood and also removes any remaining mill glaze. Of course this is not the fastest or cheapest way to have the home sealed, but if all the time and money has been poured into building the home, it seems logical to spend a bit more to make sure the house is prepped and the finish applied correctly so to last more that a couple of years. 

It’s either spend a little more in the beginning and do it right or come back in a couple of years frustrated and spending much more to strip the entire home and do it all over again…only this time…right!

Stripping Latex

In this deckvideo, we were asked to remove a solid latex stain from the homeowners front porch. Deck Restoration is pretty much the same as Log Home Restoration, but being a horizontal surface, there are a few things to keep in mind. We will go into this further in another post.  On this job, the weather was cold which slows down the chemical reaction, but applied properly, the latex can be removed quiet easily. However, some areas may take a second applacation, especially around knots, nail heads  and between boards. Notice also, the operator has the lance tip very close to the wood. Care must be taken when using pressure this close to the surface so that no damage or excessive “fuzzing” occurs. The trick in this case is to keep moving …fast!

Stripping latex

With the right chemical even the toughest latex paints can be removed.

http://www.taskmasters3.com/Restoration-Blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/stripping-latex.MPG

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