Log Home Restoration: A Quick Look At Stripping

Log Home Restoration: Stripping Handrails is a short video clip showing a log home that has been stripped and in the process of stripping the front stoop and handrails. Notice the flowing motion with the wand so as not to damage the wood.

Quick Tip: Deck Restoration

When staining a deck using an oil finish, be sure to saturate the butt ends of the decking boards several times. They will soak up an unbelievable amount of stain. The end grain is like little tunnels and the stain will travel far into the wood. Put plenty on until you are satisfied it is to the “point of refusal.” This is a good place for rot to begin so keep it sealed. By the way, log ends are the same…….so….don’t skimp on the sealer!!

Log Home Restoration: Applying Latex

On this log home, we applied a latex stain. This picture shows the first of two base or color coats. This was followed by two top coats of a clear gloss. Although labor intensive, the finish is beautiful and very durable.

Log Home Restoration: Chemical Stripping a Log Home

Log Home Restoration often involves Chemical Stripping the old finish to prepare the wood for a new coat. If you notice in the video, there is always someone on the inside checking for leaks. Many log home owners are surprised to find out their home WILL leak to some degree. The good part is that when a leak is discovered, it is marked and repaired during the caulking process.

Putting on the “Top Coat”

Some homeowners are concerned when they see this white coat going over the new stain. Most think it is paint.

This clear coat looks “milky” being applied, but dries to a light sheen. Looks very nice and adds another layer of protection. Very durable as well.

Log Home Restoration: Before Restoration Comes Consideration (Before You Build or Buy)

Log Home Restoration is a matter of time. Time before that existing finish, caulking, chinking or other woodwork will need attention. Some of the problems that occur that require restoration could be avoided altogether if the potential log home owner knew what to look for before purchasing that dream home. Consider the following before building or buying your log home. 

While water is a major issue with log homes, the sun is just as much a concern, if not more so than water. The sun (UV rays) can cause irreversible damage to the logs and any wood for that matter in a relatively short period of time. Wood before it is cut down and milled has  moisture in the form of water, sap, oils, etc. in it. Once cut and milled it begins to dry out. As it dries, it will shrink and split causing “checks” or cracks. 

 This is where the trouble can start. Once the checks have opened up, water can get in and over a period of time mildew and mold will begin to grow and eventually the wood will rot. Also, wet and rotting wood is food for insects. Rotten logs are the homeowner’s biggest problem and greatest expense.  To avoid these problems, a few things should be considered when building or purchasing a log home. 

 Every log home, without exception should be built high enough off the ground so that water can not “splash back” onto the logs. A minimum of three feet from the logs to the ground should be sufficient. But, even higher is better. Next, roof over hangs (eves) should be no less than 24 inches to help keep rain water off the logs. The ideal log home would be one that had a wrap around porch on all four sides. This would keep the two biggest enemies, sun and water, away from the logs. 

One of the biggest problems with log homes is splash back off of decks onto the logs. There really is no good solution to this problem other than putting a roof over the deck like mentioned earlier with the wrap around porch. This will solve the problem but in some cases it may not be practical or the homeowner may just enjoy sunning out on the deck or looking up at night and seeing the stars. 

So if a roof is not an option, then it is imperative to make sure the logs have a good coat of stain constantly. At least every year re-apply a good quality stain and allow the wood to absorb as much of the stain as possible. Inspect these areas often and at the first sign of wear or of a mildew problem, address it immediately. 

Another important area of the log home to watch are the log end corners. The ends of the logs should not extend past the roof overhang. If they do, when it rains, water will be constantly running on them. It would be a good idea to have the ends cut back far enough so that the runoff from the roof will not affect the logs and become a problem. Log ends are very porous and the water will absorb or “wick” very easily into the end grain. There are products made to seal the log ends that work well, but if these are not used, a good coat of stain should be applied annually. Gutters are an option as well. However, gutters only help and are not a “cure all.” 

Finally, anything laying up against the logs or standing within a few inches should be moved away. Many times I have seen firewood stacked up either on a porch, deck or on the ground next to the house. Termite heaven! Get it away from and off the deck or porch.

Gas propane tanks, charcoal grilles, yard furniture or anything that can cause water to splash onto the logs or cause poor air circulation should all be removed and stored elsewhere. It is much easier not to mention cheaper to find a suitable place to put yard items and the such than it is to have someone come and remove and replace rotten logs. 

There are a host of other things that can damage your log home. These are just a few to think about. Although these are common sense issues, they may not always come to mind when you are considering purchasing a log home. Take time to educate yourself about the difference in log homes and conventional homes. After all, at first glance, they look somewhat indestructible. But looks can be deceiving as they say.

A Bit of a Challenge

This 6000 square foot log home was a challenge. Why? Because there was absolutly no shade, we were applying a latex semi-transparent stain, it was four coats and in the middle of July.

The heat was not so much of the problem as the sun beating down on the logs. A latex stain will dry way too fast if applied in direct sunlight anytime. Add 95 degrees temperature and up and you better find some shade.

So, we worked around the house…. as the sun moved….so did we, staying on the shady side. It was still hot, but the logs were cool enough to accept the stain and have time to absorb into the wood. 

All in all….it went pretty well…..a little slow, but it was done right, the customer was happy….and if the customer is happy……..

Chinking Problems

This chinking was only a few years old. The product was a quality product. The problem however was twofold. First, the backer was a type of styrofoam that the chinking stuck to making it unable to move with the logs. Logs will expand, shrink and settle over time, therefore the chinking must be able to move as well.

With the proper backer it allows the chinking to adhere to the top and bottom of the logs only so that it only has to stretch two ways, up and down. It is not restricted by being attacthed to the face of the backer. 

Second. the applacation was too thin. Most of the chinking was paper thin, 1/16 inch or less. To have enough elasticity to move between such a wide gap (4 inches), a thickness of 3/8 to 1/2 inch is recommended. This will allow the chinking to act like a rubber band. As it stretchs, it get thinner, and as in this case, too thin, and it will break.

 So, correct intallation of backer rod and proper applacation of the chinking is important if it is expected to last. Proper chinking can get expensive because it is slow tedious work. But if it is rushed to save money, it will show down the road.  This is another….You get what you pay for.

   

 

Whats Wrong With This Picture?

Another log home restoration. This home was less than two years old.

The logs and deck were cleaned with bleach to remove mold and mildew by the homeowner. What is left from what was once a honey colored stain is more mold, mildew and water stains.

The bleach removed all the mildew on the surface, however, the homeowner was surprised at the black stains that remained. We were called and found these stains were under the finish! This is not the first time we have seen this. More and more newer log homes are having mold and mildew problems.

Although there is more than one reason causing this problem, the main culprit is high moisture content. Oftentimes log homes are stained/sealed just as soon as they are “dried in.”  Many times the logs may or may not have been properly cleaned prior to sealing. If cleaned, chances are they were too wet when sealed. The only way to know is to test with a moisture meter. If not properly cleaned; mold and mildew spores, dirt, pollen and other contaminants can hold moisture in.

Once the logs are sealed, the encapsulated wood is a breeding ground for not just mold and mildew but eventually log rot and insects. Not good for practically a brand new log home.

The Debate Goes On

 The debate among log home restoration contractors rages on as to the proper way to remove old finishes from a log surface. Use a chemical and blast it off with water pressure, or use crushed corn cob and blast it off with compressed air. Those are the choices. 

The contractor that prefers chemicals and a pressure washer will tell you that cob blasting will pit the wood, create much unwanted dust inside and outside the home and cost twice as much as chemical stripping. 

The contractor that prefers cob blasting will tell you the chemical and pressure washing process will make the wood “fuzzy” and the pressure of the water will shoot through the walls and get inside the house causing water damage and mildew problems.

 Both are legitimate concerns and although both statements are true to some degree, to the homeowner neither chemical nor cob blasting sounds like a viable option. 

However, when properly executed, both have their place and are very effective methods for removing different types of finishes. When improperly used, both can cause extensive damage not only to the logs, but also to metal trim, glass, vinyl as well as causing damage to the inside of your log home from excessive dust and or water. Needless to say, only the most experienced professional should be allowed to use either method on your log home.

 At TASKMASTERS WOOD MAINTENANCE, we use both methods depending on the job at hand. Most log homes today still have oil based stains and sealers on them. In this case chemical stripping is the preferred method of removing these coatings. 

 There are however exceptions. Some of the harder “film forming” stains including linseed oil based stains and latex stains and paints may not respond well to chemical stripping and will have to be removed by cob blasting. These are usually few and far between, however as latex stains grow in popularity so will cob blasting.

 With chemical stripping, it is all about the process, not the pressure! The chemical is the tool that does the work, not the pressure washer. The pressure washer we use is more for the volume of water (six gallons per minute) rather than the pressure. We start by mixing a weak solution of stripper and apply it to the logs by spray. It is allowed to “dwell” for a predetermined length of time. At this point we do a test spot to see how the sealer responds to the stripper. If needed, we will adjust the solution to an optimal strength to remove the sealer in an efficient manner but in such a way as to minimize “furring” to the wood. Depending on the sealer, some “furring” of the wood is to be expected. This is easily removed using defelting pads later in the process. 

While chemical stripping, my wife is on the inside of the log home checking for leaks. And there will be leaks. We have never restored a log home yet that did not leak to some degree. Even the most expensive log homes leak….It’s still a log!

 Leaks are not necessarily bad. The water is really a good indicator to pinpoint where the home does have leaks. As the leaks are found, we will tag the spot where the leak occurred so that we can come back later and address the issue by caulking, weather stripping, chinking or whatever means is necessary to remedy the leak making the house weather tight. 

Once the stripping is completed, it must be neutralized and allowed sufficient time to dry before sealing. This usually takes two to four days, but the only way to know for sure is to test with a moisture meter. An 18% moisture content or lower is required before any type of finish is applied.

This method of removing old finishes is safe and reliable if used properly.  However, to the inexperienced, too strong of a chemical mix and you can not only “fur” the wood, but it can actually soften the wood to the point it must be replaced. Too much pressure and you can not only “fur” the wood, but you can gouge out the wood, as well as cause damage to other areas of the home such as siding and windows.

Be sure you have someone that knows what they are doing and chemical stripping is a viable solution to removing old finishes. 

With Cob Blasting, really the same thing holds true. It’s the process. The name itself scares some people because they are not familiar with this process. Blasting consist of using compressed air and a lot of it (at least 185cfms) and mixing it with some type of media, in this case ground up or crushed corn cob. The mix is then blown out of a nozzle toward the log surface where it impacts at great force, knocking off the old finish. Corn cob is used because it is relatively soft and will not damage the underlying wood (if you know how to use it.) 

One of the biggest problems with cob blasting is the copious amounts of dust. The average house may use as much as a ton or more of corn cob media. That is a lot of media blowing around, and it will get in every, and I mean every nook, cranny, crevasse, and corner there is inside and out of the home. We cover all the flat surfaces and furniture as well as put plastic up around the perimeter of the inside of the home to help confine the dust to the walls and not out into the rooms, but some still manages to get by. 

The other problem with cob blasting is it takes off a layer of wood and leaves a profile in the wood. Depending on how good the operator is will determine how much wood and how deep the profile will be. This is a harsh process but like the advantage of chemical stripping locates leaks, the profile left by the blasting creates a good “tooth” and porous surface to accept the new stain. 

Chemical stripping and cob blasting both have advantages and disadvantages.  Used in the right situation by an experienced operator, they both have a place in the log home restoration process. To put one above the other would be limiting the means by which to be able to remove a particular coating from the log surface. So after an assessment has been made of the existing finish to determine it’s type, then an educated decision can be made as to the best method to use to remove the finish.

When the facts are known about cob blasting and chemical stripping, there really should be no debate. So, I hereby declare the chemical strip vs. cob blasting debate resolved.

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