Log Home Restoration: This Looks Worse Than It Really Is

This log home is 18 years old. It had one coat of a waterproofer put on soon after construction. Needless to say, that is long gone. The black mold is deep into the wood and the wood is very dried out with many checks. Log Home Restoration to the rescue!

Although the sealer has failed, we will do a light chrmical strip followed by a chlorine/TSP solution to remove the degraded wood and kill all the mildew and mold spores. After using a brightner to neturalize the wood, we will defelt the logs and finish the prep with a complete caulk. All window and door trim, corners, butt joints and log seams will be sealed for a weather tight log home.

Finally, A quailty oil finish will be applied by brush. Spraying is fine and has it’s place but, it should always be followed up with back brushing.

To keep this home from getting in this condition again, a maintenance program will be established for the homeowner.

I will post other photos as the job progresses. This will turn out nice when all is said and done although it looks hopeless now. Stay tuned!

Log Home Restoration: What a Difference a Procedure Can Make!

In this picture, on the left side shows the logs recently stripped. A typical oil stain was removed. Oftentimes after this step, some will go ahead an apply a new sealer on these logs without further preparation.

When using a semi-transparent sealer, any imperfection, stain or discoloration in the logs will be magnified when it is applied. So if a stain were to be put on top of this wood, it would not only look “washed out” but, it would not preform properly due to the stripper residue left on and in the wood.

On the right side of the picture, you can see how much better the logs look. This is what they should look like after they have been stripped and then neutralized.  Neutralizing does a couple of things. It actually brightens the wood as is evident from the photo and it also neutralizes the stripping residue. Some think this is a waste of time and is not necsessary. If this procedure is not done, stripper will be left in the wood because it is impossible to rinse it all out. I describe it as trying to wash bleach off your fingers ( very slippery) . You can rinse and rinse, but it seems to still stay slippery. The same thing happens with the wood. You can  not rinse all the stripper out. The only alternative is to…….Neutralize.  Once it has been neutralized, rinsed  and allowed to dry ( to at least an 18% moisture content or lower) the logs are then ready for the finish.  It takes longer, cost more but…..but that is the proper process and it will last far longer than putting the finish on top of a log that has stripper residue still on it.

Log Home Restoration: Restoring More Than Logs

Log Home Restoration is generally thought of as repairing or improving the interior and exterior logs and other woodwork of a log home. This can be as simple as cleaning the home and applying a fresh coat of stain or can be as complicated as performing major rot repair and log replacement. However, another aspect of log home restoration that is often overlooked or thought to be beyond restoration is the roof. Specifically asphalt shingled roofs.

 

Many log homes as well as conventional homes today with asphalt shingled roofs are streaked or completely covered with a brownish-black stain. Many homeowners think these stains are signs of a worn out roof that must be replaced. Oftentimes though, depending on the age of the roof, a good cleaning is all that is needed.   

       

Log Home Restoration is generally thought of as repairing or improving the interior and exterior logs and other woodwork of a log home. This can be as simple as cleaning the home and applying a fresh coat of stain or can be as complicated as performing major rot repair and log replacement. However, another aspect of log home restoration that is often overlooked or thought to be beyond restoration is the roof. Specifically asphalt shingled roofs.

 

Many log homes as well as conventional homes today with asphalt shingled roofs are streaked or completely covered with a brownish-black stain. Many homeowners think these stains are signs of a worn out roof that must be replaced. Oftentimes though, depending on the age of the roof, a good cleaning is all that is needed.   

 

In the southeastern United States with the warm temperatures and high humidity, there is a growing problem with algae on roofs and particularly asphalt/fiberglass shingled roofs.

This algae is known as Gloeocapsa Magma which is identified by the brownish black stains. Usually it is noticed on the north side of the house first (where there is the least sun and the most moisture) and then spreads to other areas over time. In such a warm and moist climate, the only thing the algae needs is a food source to grow and spread. One food source is readily available in the form of limestone. Limestone is used as filler in the shingles.

 

With the ever increasing cost of petroleum used to manufacture asphalt shingles, companies needed to find a more economic way to produce the shingle so they introduced fiberglass. This reduced the asphalt, and made the shingle much stronger, but it also made the shingle much lighter in weight. Therefore shingle manufactures started adding a relatively cheap crushed limestone mixture to the asphalt shingle mainly as a filler. However, this created an entirely new problem. A food source for Gloeocapsa Magma.

 

So, is this algae a problem or just an eyesore? In the early stages, Goleocapsa Magma is more of an eyesore, but as it grows, it can become a significant problem.

Gloeocapsa Magma in some cases left untreated can become a health issue to some people with chronic breathing and allergy problems.

 

It also inhibits the shingle’s ability to reflect the UV rays of the sun. This in turn causes excessive heat build up in the attic which not only causes higher cooling costs, but also increases premature deterioration of the shingles. Another problem if let untreated, the algae buildup acts as a bed for leaves, dirt and pollen to collect creating a home for mold and mildew as well as having the ability to cause water to “dam” up under the shingles causing leaks. So it can be both an eyesore and a significant problem.

 

The best advice is to have it removed by a professional roof cleaning contractor when it becomes unsightly. The longer it stays on the roof and the more it spreads, the more likely there will be problems and it will only cost more to remove it.

 

There are a few different ways to remove the algae, but according to ARMA, (American Roofing Manufactures Association) a chlorine solution applied lightly, (meaning no pressure washing) and properly rinsed is the recommended and proper way. The other most commonly used methods are pressure washing and using Sodium Hydroxide. Pressure washing can easily remove the granules from the shingles as well as actually cut into the shingle. Sodium Hydroxde is a caustic degreaser often found in dish washing detergent and oven cleaner. Applied to an asphalt shingle, it can dilute the asphalt pigment resulting in loose granules and thin spots or holes in the shingles. I would not recommend Sodium Hydroxide.

 

Removing Goleocapsa Magma from your log home is a good idea, but only if it is done properly. The homeowner should have a reputable log home restoration contractor inspect the roof to determine if it is this particular algae and if the shingles are in good enough condition to be cleaned. Older shingles may actually need to be replaced. A reputable contractor should tell you if that is the case. Be careful who you call. It is very easy to have someone with their own interest in making a dollar tell you what they want you to know so to benefit themselves more than to benefit you. 

 

Log home restoration is really not complete if you are standing back admiring the beautiful new finish of your home and all you can see is ugly black streaks and stains all over the roof. So, restoring more than just the logs may be a good idea!

Log Home Restoration: A Quick Look At Stripping

Log Home Restoration: Stripping Handrails is a short video clip showing a log home that has been stripped and in the process of stripping the front stoop and handrails. Notice the flowing motion with the wand so as not to damage the wood.

Quick Tip: Deck Restoration

When staining a deck using an oil finish, be sure to saturate the butt ends of the decking boards several times. They will soak up an unbelievable amount of stain. The end grain is like little tunnels and the stain will travel far into the wood. Put plenty on until you are satisfied it is to the “point of refusal.” This is a good place for rot to begin so keep it sealed. By the way, log ends are the same…….so….don’t skimp on the sealer!!

Log Home Restoration: Applying Latex

On this log home, we applied a latex stain. This picture shows the first of two base or color coats. This was followed by two top coats of a clear gloss. Although labor intensive, the finish is beautiful and very durable.

Log Home Restoration: Chemical Stripping a Log Home

Log Home Restoration often involves Chemical Stripping the old finish to prepare the wood for a new coat. If you notice in the video, there is always someone on the inside checking for leaks. Many log home owners are surprised to find out their home WILL leak to some degree. The good part is that when a leak is discovered, it is marked and repaired during the caulking process.

Putting on the “Top Coat”

Some homeowners are concerned when they see this white coat going over the new stain. Most think it is paint.

This clear coat looks “milky” being applied, but dries to a light sheen. Looks very nice and adds another layer of protection. Very durable as well.