Stripping Latex

In this deckvideo, we were asked to remove a solid latex stain from the homeowners front porch. Deck Restoration is pretty much the same as Log Home Restoration, but being a horizontal surface, there are a few things to keep in mind. We will go into this further in another post.  On this job, the weather was cold which slows down the chemical reaction, but applied properly, the latex can be removed quiet easily. However, some areas may take a second applacation, especially around knots, nail heads  and between boards. Notice also, the operator has the lance tip very close to the wood. Care must be taken when using pressure this close to the surface so that no damage or excessive “fuzzing” occurs. The trick in this case is to keep moving …fast!

Stripping latex

With the right chemical even the toughest latex paints can be removed.

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Using Backer Rod

During log home restoration when caulking a joint or check 1/4 inch or larger be sure to use backer rod. It not only fills up some of the gap, but more importantly, it keeps the caulk from sticking to the back of the crack or check. By doing this, the caulk only sticks to the top and the bottom therefore allowing for more movement when the logs expand and contract. If the entire check is filled, when the logs move, the caulk has to stretch in all directions rather than just two (top and bottom) thereby creating more stress and premature failure.

Stripping Latex Paint and Stains

Stripping latex stains and paint can be difficult. Using the proper technique and chemicals will make the process much faster and leave good results. However, chemical stripping  will not work on every coating.

Testing must be done to determine if the finish will come off with chemical stripping and the degree of difficulty of removal. It may be necassary to use other methods.

In this video clip the nozzle is very close to the wood. This should be avoided if possible to keep from “fuzzing” the wood and creating more work.

In this case the weather was cold and chemical strippers are not as effective as in warmer weather therefore more pressure was needed in this case.  Some defelting was needed after stripping, but that is the price paid working in 40 degree weather.

Log Home Restoration: To Caulk or Not To Caulk

In the log home industry, like all industries, the implementation of techniques, products and procedures vary from company to company.  From concept to design to actual construction, each log home will have it’s own set of variables and unique challenges. However, one particular procedure is often preformed in an inadequate manner, or substandard products are used, or may be neglected altogether. 

Ignoring the proper installation and maintenance of this very important aspect of the construction process can and has led to major damage. Logs, trim work, fascia, soffit and other areas of the log home have succumb not only to major mildew problems and insect infestation, but most importantly, wood rot. 

This important procedure is caulking. Probably at least one half of the log homes I inspect or work on are improperly caulked, not caulked completely (meaning the home is weather tight) or not caulked at all. 

Generally, most log homes have some amount of caulking. Usually it is found around windows and doors. Sometimes the corners have either been caulked or some type of expanding foam may have been used. However, more often than not, that is about all the caulking that can be found. 

Now, depending on who you talk to, will determine the answer to what and how much should be caulked on a log home. The reality is, common sense will reveal the truth. 

I recommend caulking every joint and seam from under the eaves of the exterior walls down to the floor rim joist. Starting at the top, this would include running a bead of caulk between where the soffit and the siding or logs meet. This is one of the most overlooked areas of the home and one of the largest areas that not necessarily leaks from water intrusion, but air and insect infiltration. Most of the time this wall just butts up to the soffit and very seldom has any type of weather proofing. 

Next, if the window and door trim has been installed, it is hard to tell if these areas have been caulked properly or caulked at all. If the builder is reputable, then most likely it has been taken care, but it would be wise to check. It may be necessary to remove the trim to be able to see where the logs butt up to the window/door framing. 

Now to the logs. This may be debatable, but it seems to me if there is a crack or gap between two pieces of wood, this is an invitation for air, water and insects to enter. When we use a chemical strip to remove old failing finishes during a log home restoration, we always find leaks. It doesn’t matter if the house is one or one hundred years old. Every log home will leak to some degree or another. We have stripped many log homes from large lake homes to small cottages and to date, they all have leaked somewhere to some degree. 

With that being said, that is not necessarily bad. When a leak is found, it is marked so later when the caulking process begins, we can identify where the leak was and address it as needed. Granted, these leaks were caused by high pressure water being forced onto the logs. However, if the water can find it’s way into the home, so can ambient air an insects. 

So, at the very least, all window and doors, butt joints, log corners and checks should be caulked and caulked properly. 

The next questionable area is the seams between each stacked log. Most but not all manufactured log homes have a tongue and groove system milled into the logs. During construction generally each log will have some type of gasket, usually foam, and a bead of caulk running the length of the log in this groove to form a seal between the two adjoining logs making them weather tight. In theory, this should be sufficient. The problem is in new construction, these new logs are going to shrink, settle, twist ,warp and bow over time as well as expand and contract due to temperature changes and depending on the initial moisture content of the logs, all of this can cause considerable movement. This movement very likely will cause the caulking and the foam gasket material to fail, logs to pull apart at the seams and also butt joints to separate. 

If this happens, the only remedy is to caulk. But until this is done, water, insects and air are able to easily enter and begin to cause damage and at the very least, make for a drafty log home.    

This can easily be eliminated from the beginning if the homeowner will ask to have the entire home caulked at the construction phase or when log home restoration is needed. Once the old sealer is removed exposing clean bare wood, then would be the perfect time to install new caulking and thereby eliminating any potential problems with water, air or insects. 

To caulk a log home properly only takes a few days. If it is new construction, there is not much prep work. If it is a log home restoration, there may be some old caulk that will have to be removed first but, after that, the new application is easily applied, tooled and cleaned to leave a neat weather proof joint that will last for several years. 

Remember, log homes are constantly shifting, shrinking and swelling, therefore there will always be caulking issues to be addressed. The solution is to stay on top of it by doing annual inspections and making repairs as necessary. It doesn’t take long and most people can do it themselves or you can hire a professional to do it. Just make sure it gets done before any real damage occurs and you are faced with some real expense of replacing damaged logs or other woodwork. Log home maintenance cost far less than log home restoration. You make the call.

Boring Bees

Always plug Boring Bee holes.

When the eggs hatch, the adult bees will return to their nest and lay more egge. Then the process begins again.

1/2 wooden dowels work well. Spray the hole with some type of insecticide. WD-40 works. Then drive the dowel in, cut it off and stain it. Don’t let the bees get out of hand. They can do a considerable amount of damage to your logs and trim.,

Roof Cleaning: Nothing But The Facts Please (Part Two)

In part one, we discussed what causes the black stains on asphalt roofs that is so often found on houses especially in the Southern United States.  Now, we will discuss two of the techniques of removing the stains and why one way should be avoided.

 There are generally two ways to remove Gloeocapsa Magma. Either with Sodium Hypochlorite or Sodium Hydroxide. This is where the debate begins. Some contractors use one and some use the other. So what is the difference and which is the best? Here are the facts.

 Sodium Hydroxide is a chemical used in many different products and applications. Some of the better know are dish washing detergent, water treatment plants, oven cleaners and paint and stain strippers. It is also used as the main ingredient in roof cleaners sold at the big box stores.

 Used as a roof cleaner it is applied usually with a pump up sprayer to the roof and allowed to set for a period of time. Then using some type of pressure washer someone will get on the roof and using pressure wash the chemical and stains off. As it is being washed off it looks like syrup or coffee running off the roof. Some of this is the algae, but some of it is also asphalt from the shingles.

 As mentioned earlier, Sodium Hydroxide is used in oven cleaners and dish detergents. It is actually an excellent degreaser. It breaks down grease, oil, etc. to a substance that is water-soluble and easily disposed of. We use it to remove oil based stains from decks. In this case, used as a roof cleaner, it does remove the algae, but also kills grass, plants and can damage glass as well as break down the asphalt (oil based) in the shingle. It does not destroy the shingle because of the chemical’s strength and time left on the roof, but it does remove some degree of asphalt. And any amount of asphalt removed is too much. In my opinion, not the best method.

 Sodium Hypochlorite is another widely used chemical in roof cleaning. Probably best know as the main ingredient in bleach, it works well at removing algae and mildew. As found in bleach it is around 5% by volume depending on the brand. Commercial Clorox brand is around 6%. Bought “off the shelf,” 5% bleach will clean a roof but it will take some time and probably several applications. The problem with store brands is the 5% is really not strong enough and Sodium Hypochlorite looses strength over time. It is hard to tell how long the bleach has been setting on the shelf and you can’t tell the strength until it is used. You may have noticed at the “dollar stores,” the bleach is weaker than at the grocery store. The reason is because the bleach has been pulled off the grocery store shelves because of it’s age and sold at a cheaper price at the dollar stores.

 Most professional roof cleaning contractors will buy their Sodium Hypochlorite from a chemical supplier. It is fresh and also much stronger at 12.5% content by volume. Applied correctly, it is an excellent cleaner and does not harm the shingles. It is the only method endorsed by the American Shingle Manufactures Association.

Sodium Hypochlorite is caustic so precautions must be taken when being used. It will kill grass and plants if not properly applied and, it will also corrode metal and can etch glass if not used correctly. Safety precautions must also be adhered to. Chemical mask, gloves and protective clothing must be worn and run-off controlled.   It is not for the homeowner, the do-it-yourselfer or an untrained contractor. It is however the best method of removing Gloeocapsa Magma.

 So although there is a debate as to the best method to remove black stains from roofs, like anything else, there is a right way and a wrong way to do anything. Know the facts and you will know the right way. Roof cleaning can be done safely and effectively if done correctly. Those are the facts.

Roof Cleaning: Nothing But The Facts Please (Part One)

Roof cleaning is becoming more and more popular especially in the Southeastern United States because of an airborne algae called “Gloeocapsa Magma”. It is identified by the black streaks and stains that are mainly found on the north facing side of the roof, but does spread to the entire roof eventually.

 

For Gloeocapsa Magma to grow, it has to have heat, moisture and a food source. The heat and moisture source is easily provided by the warm and humid Southeastern climate. The food source is mainly provided from limestone fillers found in asphalt shingles.

 

 Limestone was introduced to the shingle manufacturing process when oil prices started to escalate some years ago. Asphalt impregnated material was used in the shingles to add weight and substance to the shingle. To save on rising petroleum cost, and ultimately shingle costs, the manufactures substituted limestone in place of some of the asphalt material.  Limestone being relatively cheap and dense was an ideal substitute. However, limestone also feeds Gloeocapsa Magma. Feeding off of the warm temperatures, high humidity and limestone in the shingles for food, if left unattended, the algae can cause some significant damage over time. 

 

In the beginning this algae is more of an eyesore than anything, and can be easily removed. Left on the roof, it will keep spreading until it covers the entire roof. At this point it becomes food for mildew and lichens and this is where the real trouble starts. Be careful! Many times a roofer will be called in to inspect the roof and some roofers will tell the homeowner that they need a new roof and in some cases, that may be so. But, too many times just a cleaning will suffice saving the homeowner thousands of dollars.

 

However, left unattended, the mildew will build up over time until there is a substantial layer of which can breed mildew. The mildew builds up to a point that moss will begin to grow. Moss can the lead to Lichens and Lichens have little tentacles that grow down into the shingle. Once the tentacles get established, they are very hard to remove and in the process, some of the shingle grit will be dislodged leaving pits or holes in the shingles.

 

So it is recommended to remove the stains before it gets that bad. The best time to clean the roof is in the warmer months and when the algae covers 30% to 40% of the north roof. By this time it is likely that is has spread to other areas of the roof and will only be a matter of time before it begins to show. The longer you wait, the harder and more costly to remove.

 

Now the question becomes, how do you remove it. In part two we will discuss the two most popular removal techniques, and the right removal technique.